WRX735SDHB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

The ice selector solenoid was a snap to replace.
You do have to pull the ice maker out. I looked on you tube to find out how to take off the wire cover and how to release the ice maker so it will slide out.
Firmly grab it and pull try to keep it level while pulling and it will slide out better.
After removed its 2 small screws and a release clamp to get the old part off and snap the new one in replace screws and wires.
The toughest part of this was figuring out that it was the solenoid in the first place.
Best of luck do it yourselfers like me.

First thing was to UNPLUG the frig. Removed the screw in the back of the light. Slid/lifted off the plastic cover took out the light panel and unplugged it. Ordered a new one online and reversed my moves to reinstall the new one ! Not ever having done it before, it went pretty smooth. Easier next time. ??

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Open and remove door by loosening two screws on both sides of the door. Lift up and away the door.place the door on flat surface, grab and lift up on seal pulling out of reach. Clean track, alone seal on food before pressing in place. Check to make sure seal is set in place. Install door job done.

Removed one Phillips screw holding cover—removed it using light pressure. Released two tabs on left side holding module —allowing it to drop down. Unplugged wiring terminal and removed old module. Reverse the process and all goes well and extremely easy. I didn’t see the need to disconnect the power.

it was so easy to change,and we would recommend your products to anyone.

I safely unplugged the power from the refrigerator first before starting the repair. I then had to remove the bottom access panel which is secured with hex head screws, then disconnected the two plugs from the two failed parts that connects to the appliance compressor. After installing the replacement parts and returning power back to the refrigerator I buttoned up the access panel and I waited at least three hours to turn the cooling system back on. This allows the coolant in the compressor to settle. The two replacements parts fixed the cooling system.

first of all,i just want to thank parts select for sending me a second ice maker at no charge.after installing the first one and it didn't work,i talked with Heather and she sent me a new one.installation went the same as before.hardest part is getting the quick connect wire harness apart and the ice fill arm .it is working great and my home is happy.thank you!