WRX735SDHV00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Inside the food section above the top shelf behind the light in the back, remove the lid from the cover in lifting from the lower edge no tools necessary here. Remove two screws with Phillips screw driver remove entire housing inclusive Styrofoam insert. Unplug damper Control Unit. Remove two screws and remove damper control unit and replace in reverse order. Finally that refrigerator is quiet, I should have done this long time ago. Unbelievable this is the second part I have to replace on this expensive refrigerator.

Removing the old unit was difficult. The light was clearly designed for installation not for ease of repair. Since I was concerned about marring the surface of the refrigerator I used a paint scraper to get under the lip of the light and another smaller paint scraper to lift the unit away from the body of the refrigerator. It does not just "pop off". I eventually did get it free without any damage to the wall of the refrigerator. The repair was then very easy. There was a connector that was easy to separate allowing for the removal of the old unit without cutting any wires. The new unit had a mating connector, which easily connected to the old connector in the refrigerator. After some pushing I was able to install the new unit into the hole in the refrigerator. It does not exactly "snap in".

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

Replaced with new gasket

researched on line and found the wiring was in series and I the suggestion was to replace the first light in the series that was in the freezer. Ordered the replacement light board and took out the existing light and pooped in the new one. Lights now all work! 15 minutes at tops.

Snapped new cover on.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

using a stubby phillips screw driver removed the screw on the back side of the light assembly. Once the cover was removed there are two clips on the left side that you need to release and allow the light to pivot down. once removed press the clip on the wiring harness to separate the quick connect harness. Reinstall the new light, first insert on the right side then bring up the left side to snap back in to the clips you may need to push back on the clips so it snaps in easier. then install cover plate

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.