7GS5FHAXTA02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed front plastic grill and screws holding the filter in place. Also removed lower back cardboard panel to access water lines. Video on this website told me how to remove water lines from filter, you must depress a collar around the water line while pulling out the water line. Then install the new Water Filter Housing and water lines. The only problems I had was the tight space to work in and one of the water lines was leaking, but pushing the water line in further solved the problem.

First, verified power supply. I have power at wall outlet, no power at compressor. Also noticed no condenser fan operation. Searched YouTube and watched a few diagnostic videos of how to test for proper operation of my model. Dropped the control panel down to reveal the thermostat switch and control board. Wiggled thermostat knob and compressor would work intermittently. Thermostat bad internally. Removed wiring connections, removed cover over temp.probe. slowly removed capillary tube. Removed plastic sheath from tube. Take your time installing new capillary tube into plastic sheath as not to kink and damage tube. Route the new tube back into position that the old one was in. Reinstall covers. NOTE: My wiring terminals on the new switch were in different locations but the switch was the same dimensions. I used a multi-meter to determine the correct wire locations on new switch and installed. Reconnected power and all works well now.

Removed 3 screws on the bottom of old ice maker in the fridge, slid out old ice maker, disconnected electrical cable,took out old ice maker. Take the plastic tray from bottom of old ice maker install on new ice maker, reconnect cable, slid in place, replace the three screws. About 3 hours later water ran in and new ice maker started to make ice. The only thing I missed was I didn't rinse out new ice maker before installation. If you don't rinse out new ice maker you have to throw away the first full bin of ice due to metallic taste.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

First removed one screw from the bottom right bottom side of the unit. Removed the door from the front of the unit. Pushed up the locking tab on the left underside of the unit and pulled the unit partway out. Removed the plastic cover ( that was retained by the screw removed and disconnected the electrical connection) and finished removing the unit from the freezer. Removed the remaining three screws from the bottom of the unit and installed on the bottom of the new unit. I then slid the new unit partially in and connected the wiring harness and slid the rest of the way in guiding the water line into thepocket which was taller than the origional unit. Reinstalled the wire protective cover with one screw and the front cover back on the new unit. Done and is working great.

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.

We took out the old filter and put in the new one. Ran out a few gallons of water then it was ready to use.

removed the drive shaft (6 sided) with seals and replaced it. They last for about 5 years and have to be rotated (flipped over) to continue to use. The shaft metal is a little softer than the drive socket on the motor which, over time will cause the six-sided (12 inch) shaft to round the edges due to torque and pressure on the mixing shaft inside the ice bucket the the door of the freezer.

Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

first i put in a new water inlet valve it did not solve the problem i waited 3 days then ordered the ice maker i put it in an it still did not work after 3 days i put in water in the ice maker by hand it still did not work i gave up then to my surprise 4 more days it started working still not sure what was wrong but i am glad it works now this was about a two week process one tip on getting ice maker out is to take the door that's covers ice maker off no tools needed then remove three screws slip it in an out there is a helpful video for water inlet thank you mike b

I just slid the new pan in , partselect has the correct part all the time , I repalced my ice maker once and it took 15 min no problem

I removed cleaned & re-ionstalled the same unit. It started to slowly make ice and then stopped. I repeated the above procedure again and it started to work normally. I will keep the replacement icemaker as a handy spare. I fear it will fail again in the near future.