3XARG496WP00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Exactly as the demo instructed. It was very detail friendly and was very easy to follow.

I followed the repair videos that were provided by partselect and installed a bi-metal defrost thermostat in the freezer and a thermostat assembly in the fridge. The installation was not hard and everything is now working as it should. Thanks

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

I watched the repair video and did exactly as described. Excellent video and step by step instructions. Follow them and you cannot go wrong.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

snapped the new shelf retainer end caps onto one new trim-door and 2 old ones and snapped all 3 back onto the freezer door above each shelf so I can now use 3 freezer shelves

Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!

It was a drawer I removed the old one and slid the new one in. Took longer to fill out this form than to replace the drawer

just as the installation video show (very helpful) however the sheath tube that was pulled off of the old capillary tube did not go back on the new tube near as easy as the video showed. Got it on however and refrigerator is working like a champ now

Popped out the old, popped in the new. . . Good to go in about 30 seconds. . . . Felt cheated it was so easy. Problem solved.

I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.