4ET18ZKXDW02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

put the replacement part in..........pretty simple.

sawed the trim piece to length and installed on edge of shelf.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!

removed the lower door. took out the old gasket, snap in the new one. piece of cake.

I was able to replace the the shelf bars with no difficulty after finding the right parts on PartSelect. The easy to view measuring menu helped me get the right size for the fit I needed. You always worry when you don't have the item in front of you but they make it easy to gauge. I will use them again. I replaced three bars that had been driving me crazy.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

Just instaling the new part with a screw driver

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I removed the screws on top of the refrigerator and the freezer door, lifted the fresh food door off bottom hinge laid it on a covered floor, used a pair of wire cutters to cut old gasket. then pulled the gasket straight out all the way around. then I started on one corner using a putty knife to push the new gasket under plastic trim, then put gasket on opposite corner at top of door then did the same with other two corners, then used putty knife to go all the way around sliding gasket under trim. was easy.

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna