GB22DKXGN00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the slide out bin and then removed the many screws that held the inner panel to the outer insulated door panel. Removed the gasket. Melted the ice and dried the fiberglass perimeter insulation in the door panel. Placed the gasket in position on the door that was lying on the table. Replaced the inner panel screws. Put everything back together.

THERE IS A PROBLEM NOW. THE GASKET DOES NOT MAKE CONTACT ALONG THE TOP EDGE AND AIR LEAKS INTO FREEZER. SIDES AND BOTTOM ARE OK. DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO NEXT.

I sealed the freezer with cardboard and duck tape and kept the door attached (I recycled all the cardboard after I was done). I didn't need to use the hair dryer to remove kinks from the gasket because I couldn't get to the repair for a week and the gasket was in good shape after I took it out of the box.

I almost installed the gasket without removing the plastic door liner (more the twenty small hex screws) but I'm glad I decided to remove it after all. When I removed the plastic liner half of the fiberglass insulation was consumed by a huge block of ice. All these years my freezer had been working harder and wasting more energy than necessary.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with spray insulation which took longer to allow for the spray foam to cure. The reason I knew what I was doing was because all of you took the time to post your installation experiences. Thank you....

By the way, if you decide to remove the plastic liner for my model, it really helps if someone holds the liner while you attach the first few hex screws. Thank you wife. Also, I'm so glad I had a can of spray insulation in the garage so my wife wouldn't say "how many trips to Home Depot is going to take to finish the job"

I followed the instructions for the installation of the icemaker and its connection to the house water supply.

Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!

Removed refrigerator door. Removed 3 screws. Replaced old ice maker with new ice maker. Put in 3 screws. Ice maker working great.

Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.

First let me say the part arrived much faster than I anticipated! I was able to use the box (cardboard) the part came in to cover the freezer while the door was being worked on. I did not remove the door, but did remove all the screws that held the door inner part that the gasket fits around. Like another person wrote, my insulation in the door was frozen. I took that out and put new insulation in. I then fit the gasket around it and then screwed it back on. I have an electric screw driver and without the bit, it fit these hex screws perfectly, so I was able to unscrew and screw quickly.

Unfortunately, I realized the cause for the dripping was due to a faulty defrost thermostat. I'm guessing that part will arrive tomorrow. We did need a new gasket, however, so I don't regret it.

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct tape to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.

Pull lowers Freezer back panel and replace heater.

I checked your web site for similar problems. Most were the bimetal defrost thermostat. Some had defrost timer problems. Althought my bimetal thermostat was deformed by the ice I replaced both parts. The fix was easy after defrosting the evaporator. By using the spec sheets I found the locations and replaced the parts. The refrigerator is now working fine.

I wouldn't do it without taking the door off. Cut insulation board the size of the door and tape it to the frig. Lay the door on the table where you can work on it easy. You can use a small drill to take the screws out (under the seal). Put them back by hand and do not over tighten. They are easy to strip out where they won't hold the gasket tight to the door.

removed gasket with nut driver and screw gun. warmed new gasket up with hair dryer. worked seal around door. seal installed very easily. video was very helpfull. i didn't take door off. freezer works fine now with no frost or ice buildup.

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.