GB22DKXGN00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply used my cordless drill with the right sized socket attachment to remove the screws. I left the door on which wasn't as difficult as I thought after reading other stories. I even had to contend with my three year old who wanted to know what was going on and if she could help. As my wife is deployed it falls to me to become both parents, watch after her and take care of chores. With all that said it still only took me about half an hour to replace the old gasket with the new one. As far as the gasket goes I wish the magnet was more powerful because there is still a gap unless you push and hold it closed for an extra second when closing the freezer. A pain but at least it is not torn. Before buying I recommend searching for a parts/service center that that talks about the whole part not just how to replace.

carefully

First I removed the cover to the evaporator in the freezer section and found the coil iced up, then I turned the defrost timer until it clicked into the defrost mode, the heaters came on so I left the timer in the defrost mode to defrost the coil, it stayed on and did not change. The timer motor was bad, I ordered a new part and had to manually defrost the refrigerator by turning the timer. To replace the part I had to first unplug the power cord then pull the kick plate off at the front of the refrigerator and remove two screws that hold the timer in place, then pull it out unplug the electric plug in the new timer secure it with the two screws and put the kick plate back in place. I then plugged in the power cord and the refrigerator came on as is now working great..

Slid the end caps onto the shelf, placed the tape on the pieces as noted in the directions, and put the shelf back in place. Fast service, exact part, easy to find on the web site! Great!

First we read all the comments by other handymen. This was really helpful. Then we took the door off and removed the old gasket with a nut driver. We tried to slip the new gasket under the edge with a thin spatula and didn't have much luck. Then we remembered someone saying that is was a good time to take the door apart and check to see if there was ice build up in the door. It was so bad we took out the frozen insulation and replaced it with new....$4.00 at the hardware store. While the door was apart we put the gasket on and put it in place and tightened it to the door. This worked very well for us. This saved us from having to buy a new refrigerator/ freezer. Thanks.

I loosened(but did not remove) the 1/4" sheetmetal screws around the perimeter of the door liner. (they are numerous and they are hidden in the fold of the gasket) I removed the old gasket. With the screws still loose, I installed the new gasket. After insallation I re-tightened the liner screws. Several gaps were noted and eliminated by gently heating the gasket with a hair dryer. (be patient , it takes some time)

There were no instructions with the new gasket which made the job difficult. After great difficulty I called an appliance store and learned that the gasket should be soaked for several minutes in very hot water to make it pliable and easier to install. Also, the plastic insert that the gasket fits into should only be loosened and not removed when inserting the gasket. Lastly, the door should be removed and placed on a table to allow leverage to be applied. Installing it while still on the door is almost impossible.

Started with internet searches then began with removal of wall plate at back of freezer, pulled power cord first. Found evaporator coil completely frozen over.Went back to internet and searched possible causes. It seemed to me that the auto defrost system may not be functioning properly so I considered possible causes. Defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or possibility heater itself. I chose to go with simple stuff first and thought heater would have a better relibility characteristic. Went to Parts select got part numbers and was able to find part locations on the appliance. So far so good, and knock on wood! Thanks Parts select I spent $50 bucks instead of $1000.

I sealed the freezer with cardboard and duck tape and kept the door attached (I recycled all the cardboard after I was done). I didn't need to use the hair dryer to remove kinks from the gasket because I couldn't get to the repair for a week and the gasket was in good shape after I took it out of the box.

I almost installed the gasket without removing the plastic door liner (more the twenty small hex screws) but I'm glad I decided to remove it after all. When I removed the plastic liner half of the fiberglass insulation was consumed by a huge block of ice. All these years my freezer had been working harder and wasting more energy than necessary.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with spray insulation which took longer to allow for the spray foam to cure. The reason I knew what I was doing was because all of you took the time to post your installation experiences. Thank you....

By the way, if you decide to remove the plastic liner for my model, it really helps if someone holds the liner while you attach the first few hex screws. Thank you wife. Also, I'm so glad I had a can of spray insulation in the garage so my wife wouldn't say "how many trips to Home Depot is going to take to finish the job"

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

I have a side by side Amana fridge about 12 years old. One day I noticed everything was not cold anymore. I checked the temp with my infrared thermometer and it was about 70 in the top of the fridge, 40-50 in the bottom, and freezer was the same! So after pulling out the two baskets in the bottom of the freezer and the side rails that hold the baskets, I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the back lower panel. After looking at the electrical schematic on the back of the fridge, I jumpered around the defrost thermostat, a little cylinder with two wires coming out of it. Bingo, the fan turned on. Well after a few days of running fine with it jumpered my new one arrived. I never really tested my old one with a meter so I did that and it tested fine, so I plugged the old one back in and it worked fine for a few days. Then one day I noticed that fan wasn't running again so I just put the new one in. I had to cut one of the connectors off as it was female instead of male and crimp cap it together, but besides that it went fine. So after connecting it I noticed the fan motor was buzzing but not spinning. I wiggled wires around and determined the connector going into the fan motor had to be a certain way to make the connection. I unplugged it, it wasn't corroded or anything but if pulled down on, it would not make connection. So pulling up on the connector proved that it would make good connection, so a ziptie keeping the wires tight in the up direction proved to be the solution. I'm pretty sure my old defrost thermostat was not the problem. So that's my story. Hope it helped.

Emptied unit and removed screws holding panels at rear of freezer compartment. Removed panels. Removed two screws holding motor. Made diagram of wire locations and fan blade orientation. Removed three wires and fan blade from motor. Took new motor and installed wires and fan blade to motor. Installed motor with screws. Test ran frig and reinstalled panels.

Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct tape to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.