6ED20TKXDW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed cheese & cold cut drawer accessing lower crisper drawer glass missing from surrounding frame.
Dropped in glass into grove of crisper frame…Reinstalled (sliding)!above cold cut drawer in its position and the same for crisper drawer..Finished!!!
All good except for $110.00 price tag for a piece of glass

Simple read about three of the other peoples repairs,did the same and (PIECE OF CAKE)
Only problem ordered the cam kit with shipping over # 18.oo and only needed two pieces to do the job. Should have ordered just the two cams and saved a lot of dough.
But done and over with a happy camper (WIFE)

tossed the old one slid in the new ones:)

Followed instructions that were online when ordering part. Put a adjustable wrench on the square end of the plastic support and twisted upward. Support bracket came off easily. Inserted new part and twisted downward on the square end of the support and it locked in place. Surprised it was so simple.

Just followed the video supplied with shipment. 5 minutes, even for a mechanically-challenged person.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

Remove one 5/16 screw from top hinge cover plate. Trace outline of hinge on top of refrigerator with sharpie, so you will know where to put hinge back. Remove 3 5/16 screws from hinge. Lift door up out of bottom hinge, place on table to be able to work on. Remove one 5/16 screw and upper cam piece from bottom of door and replace with new upper cam piece. Remove one 5/16 screw and lower cam piece from bottom hinge on refrigerator. Replace with new lower cam piece and one screw Set door back in place and reattach top hinge with 3 screws adjust refrigerator door as needed for a nice even gap between freezer and refrigerator doors. Tighten screws down and put hinge cover back on with one screw.

Followed the video instructions.

Pulled out the old ones and put in the new ones.

watched your instructions

I follow the video From The Tech Guy ( Gentleman ). Thank you... Best Regards .Fco

Following the instructions on the site I removed the upper hinge cover and hinge(after removing the shelves from the door). I replaced both cams on the bottom hinge, reinstalled the door and the problem was solved. A couple of hints that may speed up the process: 1. On installing the door cam, I didn't get the holes in the door and cam aligned well due to a bit of interference from the metal tab on the door, so I temporarily inserted the upper hinge pivot in the bottom hole and retightened the cam. 2. I decide to re-align the freezer door . After this, the ice and water dispensers didn't work. Turns out the internal freezer light switch which also acts as a cutoff switch for the door dispensers wasn't being activated. Easy to adjust once the cause was discovered.

Simple fix. I watched the video it was great.

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

First, after re-reading your descriptions here on your site ( it took clues from each of them) I unplugged the refrigerator and began on the only day my husband was out of town. The two selector knobs came off easily fingers only. The plate came off with only a slight prying with a screwdriver (it is intended to snap off this way). Loosening the screws and removing them in order to remember which order they returned proved to be a challenge. After disassembly, pulling the thermostat out of the tubing and replacing it with the new one without bending it was hard to do also. The refrigerator runs like new, and may run another eleven years! Thanks!