GI6FARXXF05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Took out ice maker. Then unscrewed tray after opening old turn motor clock panel and carefully detaching wires from socket(s) where needed. Put in and screwed in new tray with the new motor clock. Replaced wires into new sockets. Put the whole maker back into place. Makes great ice.

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

Layer it out for 24 hrs used hairdryer on med for the wrenkles.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

For this repair, the following YouTube video was most helpful in showing how to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator model that I have: for some reason this site has deleted my video cite but it is the YouTube video cite that ends in 7HHH03SFdCA Next, because the electrical wiring harness part has changed since production, and the new ice maker part comes with two different harness' (you have to determine which one is most similar to the harness that you remove), take a lot of pictures of the old wiring harness before removing it. There are a lot of different wires that need to be reconnected. There was a prior post by "Greg from Aliso Viejo, CA" that I printed out and followed--that post was also very helpful.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Since it wasn't possible to squeeze the seal in between the door groove and the bar which closes the gap between the two doors, I cut the seal side in half and snaked it in from the top and the bottom. Since the cut is behind the bar when the door is closed there is no compromise in getting a good seal around the door. Note there was no apparent way to easily remove this bar.

Very easy. Just get hold of the gasket with your strong fingers and pull it out of the groove it is in. Clean the groove, I used Windex and paper towels. On the new gasket there are 2 wide areas on the vertical part. these must be facing toward you and on the handle side of the door. start at the tor center of the door and work the gasket in with your fingers outward to the corners then work on the bottom of the gasket in the same manner, then start on the vertical gaskets. when you think every thing is aligned take your thumbs and press very hard all around. You may have to repeat.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

I removed and disassembled the broken frame. I cut a six inch piece of coat hanger and folded in half and crimped together. Then I took pliers and made a hook that I hooked into the metal strip in the back of the refrigerator that holds the upper shelves. After replacing the frame, center rail and glass I bent the wire up under the back of the frame to provide a support. The back of the frame is weak and has no center support.

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.