GI6FARXXY08 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

It was easy to replace the start and run capacitors. But did not fix my problem, also replaced the evaporator fan still not fixed. Pulled refrigerator out of RV and ordered a new one.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

I was hesitant to remove old seal, after I removed, I lined up new seal, and the seal popped into the slots very easily. Easy repair, no tools, worked great. The seal takes about 24 hour to seat itself for a great fit.

Very easy. Just get hold of the gasket with your strong fingers and pull it out of the groove it is in. Clean the groove, I used Windex and paper towels. On the new gasket there are 2 wide areas on the vertical part. these must be facing toward you and on the handle side of the door. start at the tor center of the door and work the gasket in with your fingers outward to the corners then work on the bottom of the gasket in the same manner, then start on the vertical gaskets. when you think every thing is aligned take your thumbs and press very hard all around. You may have to repeat.

Layer it out for 24 hrs used hairdryer on med for the wrenkles.

For this repair, the following YouTube video was most helpful in showing how to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator model that I have: for some reason this site has deleted my video cite but it is the YouTube video cite that ends in 7HHH03SFdCA Next, because the electrical wiring harness part has changed since production, and the new ice maker part comes with two different harness' (you have to determine which one is most similar to the harness that you remove), take a lot of pictures of the old wiring harness before removing it. There are a lot of different wires that need to be reconnected. There was a prior post by "Greg from Aliso Viejo, CA" that I printed out and followed--that post was also very helpful.

Took out ice maker. Then unscrewed tray after opening old turn motor clock panel and carefully detaching wires from socket(s) where needed. Put in and screwed in new tray with the new motor clock. Replaced wires into new sockets. Put the whole maker back into place. Makes great ice.

Since it wasn't possible to squeeze the seal in between the door groove and the bar which closes the gap between the two doors, I cut the seal side in half and snaked it in from the top and the bottom. Since the cut is behind the bar when the door is closed there is no compromise in getting a good seal around the door. Note there was no apparent way to easily remove this bar.

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

I broke the glass in the frig and found partselect and ordered the new glass and had it in 2 days. Very fast shipping.