GI6FARXXB06 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Just pulled out theold and squeezed in the new. I forced it and it went in.

Removed the old frame and removed the metal rod from the front of the old and slide it in to the new frame.
Then I took a piece from the old frame, measured the distance to the center of the two shelf brackets mounted inside in the rear of the refrigerator. Then I drilled two holes in the salvaged piece and mounted the piece as a support under the new frame using #8 sheet metal stews. This will prevent future breaks.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

watched diagnosis and repair videos online, assessed problem, order part and replaced ice maker. was not expecting to replace wiring harness but got it done and icemaker is working just fine.

They send you just the guts, the inner core of the icemaker, and don't include the back piece that has the motor to rotate the screw-drive dispenser and the blower. You get 2 wiring harnesses, and since no instructions come with, you get to figure out which one. The replacement has a few different plugs than the original and those competent can determine which without too much problem. One obstacle was the grounding screw which was inaccessible without removing another part which would have added greatly to the difficulty. I snipped off the old wire and the ring-terminal on the new one and joined the two with a wire clasp. Works like a charm. I had previously replaced the cycling thermostat and checked that the water valve solenoid was within the proper ohm boundaries-don't spend the money for the whole thing without trying those first! Mine must be an odd model because no YouTube videos showed the icemaker from this model.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

This took 30 seconds. Lift out shelf glass, remove broken pieces, snap new part into place.

Followed instructions for testing and replacement on You Tube video.

The replacement part provided was not an exact replacement. The part did not include a water reservoir. Instead, it had a 25 ft long water line that ran from the water filter to the water connection behind the fridge. The long water line was difficult to deal with, did not fit easily into the space provided for the water reservoir, and is coiled up behind my fridge. The part did work, but I'm unhappy with not having the resevoir.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.