NWT2002Q00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

I just followed the enclosed instructions

Unplugged it for a day listened to the ice melting on the inside and plug it in again. Decreased the temperature settings and it now seems to work fine. I will save the part in case I ever need it in the future.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

First I watched the video on your website, it was quite helpful. It showed me the location of the part to be replaced. Then I used the nut driver to remove a couple of screws, and slowly pulled the cover off . Once I pulled the cover down I could see the part that needed replacing, it had a couple of phillips head screws holding it in place, I removed those screws and unplugged the defrost timer, taking note of the color of the wires. Then I took the new defrost timer and attached the loose wire to the correct terminal according to the directions(this is where the color of your wires comes in), then I plugged in the new defrost timer and replaced the screws. I then reattached the cover making sure not to pinch any of the wires, and replaced the screws. It was so easy I was sure I did something wrong and it wouldn't work, but I plugged the refrigerator back in and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then when I checked it was running cool. I'm 55 years old and never had the nerve to try anything like this before but since my husband passed away I've had to try things myself or replace a lot of appliances. If I can do it anyone can.

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

We wasted time looking for the electrical schematic on our refrigerator (the first step in the instructions). By skipping that and reading further in the instructions, the type of cooling that the refrigerator has can easily be determined by the colors of the wires that go to the defrost timer. You need to know this to set up the timer properly for your specific refrigerator. Had I just started there, the entire repair would have taken less than 10 minutes. Very simple repair and it works like a charm, no more water coming into the refrigerator and the ice cream is rock hard. Glad we didn't have to spend lots on a new appliance. Thanks Part Select.com! BH

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I was a Sears repair man for fourty eight years , so I don"t think I should say how easy this was.

After receiving the part, I watched the installation video on the PartSelect website. The step by step demonstration was excellent. I felt confident I could do it myself after watching the video just once, and utilizing the written instructions that came with the part. The installation went smoothly, and my refrigerator is functioning correctly again. Best of all, I did not have to go through the hassle and expense of hiring a repair person!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

With the help of the website I was able to verify that the part I removed (in the area of the clicking sound) was probably the part required for replacement. I ordered it, installed it... IT WORKS (I knew it the moment I plugged in the power cord and heard the compressor kick on). Saved me from buying a new fridge or calling a repairman. I'm a 58 year old woman with no appliance experience. I watched the videos and installed the part without any trouble. Thank you PartSelect for your easy to use website instructions and helpful hints.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.