GI0FSAXVY03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered a new crisper drawer from PartSelect over the internet one morning at approximately 10:00am, and the product was delivered, non-express delivery, the next day at about 4:pm. The front coverplate of the old crisper came off easily, and snapped into place on the new drawer easily. The entire repair/replacement took less than 5 minutes.
Service from PartSelect, from locating, to ordering, to rceiving the part could not have been simpler or more efficient. A 5 star experience.Thank you.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

Broken lid popped out, new lid popped in. No tools required. 30 seconds to replace. Great price, part shipped within an hour of placing my order and arrived the next day, although I only paid for standard shipping. Excellent service - will definitely order again if the opportunity arises!

It actually took 1 day and 15 minutes to fix this problem.

I removed the drawers and shelves in the area around the pantry. I carefully took apart the sliders and plastic parts that comprise the endcap/temperature adjuster. Then I tried to replace the unbroken part into the assembly. At that point I realized that something was wrong and I had ordered the wrong part. So I cleaned and put the broken part back in the refrigerator to wait for the replacement.

PartSelect customer service person was terrific and had the correct part on the way to my home immediately. I don't know how, but it arrived the NEXT day!

THEN, it took me 15 minutes to unscrew the sliders, endcap and replace both.
Thank you PartSelect.

Easy repair. Unwrapped the new cover; pulled the old one off by releasing tabs. Inserted new piece.
Took less than 15 minutes. Looks like new. The replacement part arrived quickly from Part Select.

Removed broken lid and snapped new one in place.

pop open, unscrew quarter turn, screw new one in quarter turn, pop shut. duh

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

As shown on the YouTube link sent with email receipt.
Removed back panel. Removed the clip securing the parts with long nose pliers. Unplugged the old, replugged the new. Replaced the clip to secure.

Unfortunately, the capacitor and relay did not fix the loud clicking issue.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed