7GI5FSAXVY4 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed and disconnected the icemaker, cleaned all areas and disassembled the failed parts. Reassembled with the new parts inlcuded with the purchased package and resinstalled the unit. Started the unit and chedked for proper operation. Successful repair.

unscrewed old filter, screwed in new....good to go!

I was amazed when Fed Ex pulled up to our front door the following day after I ordered the parts, I was wondering what they were delivering and to my amazement it was the parts I had ordered from parts select the previous day , thank you so much , you are awesome. My 73 year old husband who is a 5 year cancer survivor had the part installed and we were ready to start making ice within 1 hour.He went by the installation information sent in by your customers. Thank you all, Jo Mesplay

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Customer service provided a video of the ice maker removal and installation. I watched the video and performed the remove and replacement.
Simple task.
Shout out to the customer service person, OUTSTANDING SERVICE. I apologize for not getting her name, great job.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Open and remove lower cover on filter holder by opening tabs that hold lower cover and remove lower cover.

Firmly hold back of unit and firmly hold and turn filter in counter clockwise to unlock and remove.

Install new filter by holdin back of unit and install new filter by turning in clock wise direction and then replace lower cover.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Like you video