3XARG479WP01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The video showing how to make the repair was absolutely invaluable. It would have been much more difficult without that. Our refrigerator is about 20 years old so the broken support studs were difficult to get out, but because of the video I knew I was doing it correctly. My next project is to fix the ice maker and I feel much more confident about tackling that job now.

I watched the repair video and did exactly as described. Excellent video and step by step instructions. Follow them and you cannot go wrong.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!

pryed out old stub of stud with the tip of a flat head screw driver. It really did not want to come out because of the metal wings on the side of the stud. When I finally got it out the hole was a little rough but the new stud fit in the old hole and was not to wobbley. The shelf is heavy enough to make it stable. The new stud is also long enough to support the shelf even though the hole was not really in new condition after the old stud was pried out.

just as the installation video show (very helpful) however the sheath tube that was pulled off of the old capillary tube did not go back on the new tube near as easy as the video showed. Got it on however and refrigerator is working like a champ now

I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.

remove door, replace cam, replace door

Removed all of the food from the door by lifting the shelves out. Unbolted the top door hinge, and lifted the door off. Replaced the cam and placed the door back on, re-bolted the top hinge and placed all of the food and shelving back into the door. The door closes and seals when it is shut.

I removed the crisper drawer cover and took out the glass and put it in the new drawer cover. The freezer support shelf had been missing for a while. All it needed was the shelf suuport that slid down over the stud in the freezer wall. Couldn't be simpler! No tools needed.

I follow the video From The Tech Guy ( Gentleman ). Thank you... Best Regards .Fco

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

watched your instructions

Removed the cover plate on top. Used a wrench and the nut driver to remove the three screws & the screw holding the grounding wire. Pulled apart the plastic coupling for the wiring to light the freezer. Then with the aid of a friend - lifted the door (with food removed from door shelves) off the hinge. This freezer had a water line which we didin't know how to disconnect so we were careful to move the door slightly away from the broken hinge, set it on a stool with one person holding the door steady while the other person installed the new hinge piece. Definitely takes two people (as suggested in the directions) to both lift and guide the door into place. Once it was in place - I reinserted the screws up top and tightened them. Then had to untighten them to get the door to line up as it should vertically - so I would suggest just lighten tighen the upper screws until the door is aligned and swinging smoothly. Then reattached ground wire and plastic coupling. Works great.

Simply drop in new bracket and put glass shelf back into place