3XARG495WP00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

I removed one bolt and took out the old roller after first blocking up the fridge. Then I was puzzled for a moment because the hole in the new assembly was not tapped. But then I saw that the old bolt was a self tapping bolt. I used it to tap the hole then removed it and installed the new assembly. No sweat job.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

snapped the new ones on the aluminum bar and inserted into the freezer

I tipped the refrigerator back and my friend used an adjustable wrench to attach put the new wheel assembies on. I also used a socket wrench to get the old attacheement bolts to thread. I rolled the cleaned appliance in place and adjusted the wheels with the socket set for easy door closing. It went smoothly.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

I removed the broken end cap and then I snapped the metal shelf onto both end caps and replaced the shelf.

I really must say that dealing with PartSelect was exceptional. It took about three days for me to get the part and, prior to that, it was very easy for this sidewalk fixer to locate the correct part on their website. Thank you for your excellent service.

Removed the existing broken end cap, and replaced it with the new one. Installed shelf securely back in fridge. Easiest repair I've ever done. Less than 5 minutes. I wish everything were that easy.

I unscrewed the fill tube screws from the back of the fridge, and pulled the tube out.

Then I put the new tube in, screwed the screws back in and reconnected the waterline.