AFI2538AEB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

It was a very simple operation to replace the parts and required essentially no tools, just a small screwdriver to pry up a tab for removal of the chanel on the front edge of the frame. This chanel had to be removed from the old crisper frame and installed in the new one. In addition the crisper control" had to be popped out of the old frame and into the new frame. Most of my time was spent cleaning.

Unplug Refrigerator access panel in the rear unscrews- disconnect the wire harness from circuit board- remove board (snaps out). Insert new board ,attach wires close access panel. Plug refrigerator in. reprogram fridge code with ice maker controls code is on label with model number and s/n number.

where the wires crossed at the start relay, 20 years of vibration allowed them to short out and burn out the start relay ..since i have 2 identical fridges i switched the run capacitor to determine it was'nt bad too...ordered a start relay wednesday nite and got it friday morning...cold fridge by noon...good service and the part was exactly the same as the original....

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Maytag Refrigerator – MFI2568AES - Replacing ice maker.

PartSelect Number PS8260210
Manufacturer Part Number W10583817

Tools used:
Small 1/4 in nut driver
Small flat blade screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
Flashlight
Time: about 30 minutes

#1 Unplug the refrigerator.

#2 Pull out the ice bucket.

#3 Slide bottom left edge plastic cover that hides the wire harness out. (To do this you need a small screw driver to pry the front out a bit and to insert into the slot in the middle to unlock it, then pull forward. Be careful not to break).

#4 Disconnect wire harness. (Plug has a small catch in the middle you must press to pull apart).

#5 Pull the whole unit out. (To do this you need to pry a small catch on the left out, then pull. It may be tight since it’s been in there a while and there is a small rubber water tube protruding from the roof that it will rub against).

#6 Carefully empty any water still in the icemaker into the sink. (Try not to get any of the electrical components on the fan assembly wet. If you do, a blow dryer works well to dry out quickly).

#7 Put old unit on a large table and new unit / parts next to it.

#8 Remove ice maker and tray assembly from old unit, three screws on bottom of ice maker. (Do not confuse with the three screws holding the ice dispenser motor in place). Unplug wire harness, remove small funnel.

Replacement Parts Assembly - The next few steps get a bit tricky as you may need to do several things simultaneously.

#9 Route new wiring harness. Route under the plastic clips on the new plastic tray. (Black connector and switch wires run around the bottom left corner of the ice maker head to the front).

#10 Install the new water funnel. Loosely attach new tray assembly to new ice maker ensuring wire harness is routed properly. Plug in the wire harness connectors with the exception of the black connector and the O/I switch wires.

#11 Push loosely assembled unit onto fan assembly ensuring correct funnel seating. Secure the entire assembly by replacing the three screws.

#12 Connect the black connector to the ice maker head. (Match up the holes)

#13 Check your work. (If you forgot something or misrouted your wires you may need to take it apart and do it again).

#14 Remove O/I switch from old unit. (Use a small screw driver to pop out and needle nose pliers to carefully remove the connectors). CAUTION: Be very careful as these switch connectors are not very robust and can easily pull right out of the switch if not done very carefully. (Why a new unit doesn’t come with a new off/on switch is beyond me).

#15 Push O/I switch into place on new end cover. Install power wires.

#16 Carefully push the cover onto the head ensuring the cables do not bind or get pinched.

#17 Check your work.

#18 Install plastic flapper onto the control rod. (This takes a little study to get it on right).

#19 Install control rod/ flapper assembly into hole on the ice maker. (Note: Ensure rod is all the way in and that it also goes through the hole at the opposite end. The position seems a bit odd at first but after the ice maker cycles it will drop into position. This is needed to let the ice maker know when the ice bucket is full of ice).

#20 Carefully slide assembled icemaker into freezer. (Mine was tight but it will slowly pop into place). Ensure the catch pops back into place. Observe the rubber hose protruding from the roof, it should be directly over the small funnel.

#21 Reattach the wiring harness.

#22 Reinstall the wire harness cover.

#23 Flip the switch to on. ( O = OFF I = ON )

#24 Reinstall the Ice bucket.

#25 Plug in the refrigerator.

#26 Wait several hours and you should start getting ice.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

First it was critical to have gone on-line to see that many other people have had the EXACT problem with their Maytag refrig. It went crazy at 830pm the Wed before Thanksgiving! There would have been NO WAY that we could have had that repaired with the holiday! I went to Parts Select and ordered the part that very night ( they were open and taking customer service calls until 11p EST). They had the part to us first thing Monday morning!

The installation was simple and they provided perfect instructions as to the programming of the code.

I cant believe that Maytag has not dome some sort of recall on the control board for these refrigerators. When we looked at the old one, there was moisture on the plastic panel and the 2 capacitors were corroded and bulging. We are going to try and get those replaced, so we have a spare board.

It was a whole lot cheaper to replace the board, and many would just resort to paying a repair bill of >$500.00 for the cost of a $200.00 part and about 15 minutes. You dont have to be an electronics major to fix this either!

This whole thing saved us well over $2500.00, as we are not buying a new refrigerator. I will say that we will never buy another Maytag at this point! All beware and might want to have an extra control board handy!

Remove broken parts with philips screw driver (6 screws). Replace encaps while attaching pantry drawer lid. Insert center rail and new drawer.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Discovered that the seating in the handle was stripped on one side so removed the old handle (toughest part of the repair). Based on a previously asked/answered question, the PartSelect website provided an accurate list of the required parts (and corresponding part numbers) so I had everything I needed. Installing the new handle was very straightforward and quick.

Checked if the cube maker still worked by putting some water in - yes!
Jumped the old valve to see if it would release water and nope.
Replaced the valve and everything is great.

You supplied the right part, the repair was simple and everything is working. No expensive repairman.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Very simple--Just remove all drawers, remove old end cap, remove slider from old end cap and put on new one. Screw on new end cap and replace drawers. Took about 10 minutes.

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

First, I took out the glass tray along with the two slide out compartments that are part of that assembly. Then I used a small socket set to take out the three screws that hold the part in place and along with the part a plastic connector comes out with it that adjusts the temp of the bin area. Line up the holes on the slider and two screws come out that hold the slider to the part. Disconnet the plastic piece in the back that adjusts are flow (press down plastic holders) Reattach the slider, snap the plastic piece on the back and reassemble. Sounds complicated but once you are in there, its self explanatory.