3ED26MMXRWR0 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

I took out the ice bin and in the back where the auger meets the ice bin I had to replace the small plastic piece to hold the auger in place when using the automatic ice maker. It was an easy fix.

Removed all ice from bin and let it thaw. Removed all screws and nuts from the front to release the ice crusher and the long bit. Had already printed out all the advice from others on the on-line section about taking photos and not getting the crusher blades out of order. Removed the clip with needle nose pliers and the washer. Removed the blades laying them down in exact order and direction they came off. Put on the new auger drum and reversed everything. It was nice to know that the plastic screw that held the clip is a reverse thread, otherwise we might have broken the dang thing. Too bad there aren't instructions with the part when you get it instead of just a diagram. All-in-all, it went well.

Unplug refrigerator. 1. Using a thin screwdriver, slowly and carefully pry the front panel off that is around the ice and water dispensers starting at the bottom. Once the bottom side has been popped off, carefully lift up on the panel until the top tabs pop loose. 2. Remove the next panel (5 screws) which holds the light and two switches with a screwdriver or nut driver. I then taped it over to the side onto the freezer handle to keep it out of the way. I preferred not to unplug anything. 3. Remove the door mechanism with a nut driver. The same screw holds the water spout and door mechanism together. 4. Reverse the steps and you're done! I now have a silent ice door.

Exactly as the demo instructed. It was very detail friendly and was very easy to follow.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

we read on this site how to run the tube down thru the door but we had some problems. we used tape to put together the old and new hose to snake it down and the old hose pulled apart from the new and was stuck in the hole at the bottom of the door. my husband propped up the door and took the bottom hinge off to get to the hole where the tape was stuck and I was able to get a hold of it to finish pulling it through. I think we had to thick of tape wrapped around the two pieces.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.

Heated new door gasket in clothes dryer for 10 minutes. Moved all food out of door into refrigerator proper. Removed door from refrigerator and laid flat on living room carpet. Placed a tarp over the refrigerator opening. Loosened nuts on door holding gasket in place. Removed old gasket as I went. Inserted new door gasket. Needed to use putty knife to get new gasket seated properly. Re-tightened nuts as I went. Rehung door on refrigerator.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

Removed door,layed on floor and worked myself around door. I had soaked gasket in hot water before hand but that did not remove wrinkles that well and made gasket stick out some when finished so had to keep adjusting gasket so door would close and still doing it, otherwise got to open freezer first before closing other door until I can get it adjusted.

Removed brokent tube fitting from the compression nut.
Removed two screws holding the fill tube. Removed and replaced the fill tube. Direct replacement, no cutting tube length. Reconnect water line to the new fill tube.......Done.

The plastic part that connects the fresh cold water to the ice maker in back of the fridge cracked.
Do to the fact that Whirlpool has the part stick out on the back top part of the fridge. So if you push the fridge just an inch too far back the plastic part will crack.
I ordered (The Part S&H)- came to about, $11.00.

1. Turned off the cold water under the sink.
2. In the back of the freezer section. I unscrewed the two screws that held the old broken part to the fridge.
3. I opened the freezer section and cleared out the top shelf till I could see the back of the fridge.
4. I removed the old plastic part by pushing & wiggling it about forward and it then extended out the back of the freezer side and then I pulled it out the back and it came out.
5. I slid the new replacement part in basically the reverse of step 4.
6. I connected the hose in the back. To the new, replacement plastic part, that fills the automatic ice tray with water.

7. Once finished I glued a small 2”x2” piece of wood next to the new part so the fridge will never get too close to the back wall so to never break that part that sticks out again.
Before just a small bump could break the part and water is everywhere and this leak could happen slowly at first and the next day what a mess.
Some fridges have this part recessed into the back of the fridge so this would never happen as my other fridge has.
Also, this might seem like more work then it was. It was very simple. I was scared I'd screw it up, but just did it step by step. If I had someone do it. It would have cost me a bundle.
It took more time to type this, then to do the work.
I had no instructions to follow, but again, was easer then I thought it would be.
I hope that this was helpful,
Jim Vourakis

Friend did for me, had to take off door after disconnecting water like a power cord from top of door, now works fine, also did the cam on frig side too, works better also.