3ED26MMXRWR0 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

replaced the cold control thermostat . The new one was oriented 90 degrees off (on the bracket mount) so I had to turn it (in the bracket) to line up better with the wire connections and temp sensor tube. The power wires can be connected to either terminal however, and I suppose you could leave it as is if your wires can reach. Turning it will make the knob off 90 deg. off from original markings (off to coldest) but I simply remarked the position with a marker. (make sure you connect all terminals before mounting the bracket, it's much easier that way. .Note: this was a 40+ year old Sears "Coldspot" refridg. and it works like a dream since I changed out this original cold control. Love these old mechanical appliances that are much more reliable than the new brokered ones. Glad whirlpool has made many parts interchangeable through many years...kudos to them

1. PUsh the Lock button so the water will not run.
2.Remove the screw holding the nozzle.
3. Remove the Grill
4. Disconnect the black water tube. Pull the female part of the union off the old tube and hold it for the new tube.
5. PUll it the tube out from the nozzle end.
6. Snake the new tube into the hole and shove it through until it comes out the door hinge port at the bottom of the door.
7. Continue pushing and pulling the tube until the nozzle is in position.
8.Test fit the new tube and cut a short piece off to fit properly.
9. Slide the female part of the union onto the new tube. Insert it onto the union and tighten.
10. Insert the screw that holds the nozzle in place and tighten.
11. Push the on unlock button and fill a glass with water.
12. Check for leaks. If no leaks reinstall the grill.
Job done.

Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Removed ice bucket and discovered the auger drum was broken.

After I received the new part, I removed the front screws of the ice bucket, removed the clip that held the auger and other parts together, and then slide each part off the auger until I got to the broken drum.

Assembly was in reverse except you must pay attention where all the spacers and ice crusher bars go back into the original position. This was the most difficult step.

Works great now, crushed and cubed ice dispenses thru the door like new.

lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.

The frig was already empty....removed the plastic control knobs and loosened the hex head screws to remove the cover . The wires were the same at each contact point, so, it took about 15 minuets to adjust the control knob to match the old one and reinstall the thermostat and place the cover...The other 15 minuets I spent finding my wife to show her the frig was back to work...Just a walk in the park...

Pulled out the ice bin and dumpted ice in the sink. Use 1/4 inch nut driver to take out all 1/2 inch screws. Be careful to watch how door spring and holder goes. Pull assembly apart and remove alger. Plastic nut on end of alger has reverse threads, remove it and then remove broken alger drum. Replace with new drum and reassemble in reverse order.

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

First the small screws you sent did not fit.I had to cut and mend the old ones (2) to use them.I did purchase a connecting valve tha I used to connect the part of tubing (my name for it) from old one to new one.I was surprides it is working fine.Not bad for a nurse!

the process was pretty straight forward though the part came without instructions. We were able to replace the part improperly with ease. however, we were not able to get the pieces aligned properly for a long time. We ended up taking the door off many times to try to realign the pieces. After many hours I finally unscrewed the bottom cam while the door was in place. The piece popped into place and all was fixed. Had the part come with directions telling us to do this we would have replaced the cam within 15 minutes!