3EHD261MMWR1 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the video instructions.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

remove door, replace cam, replace door

easy - remove the door, replace th part, put back the door

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Removed the cover plate on top. Used a wrench and the nut driver to remove the three screws & the screw holding the grounding wire. Pulled apart the plastic coupling for the wiring to light the freezer. Then with the aid of a friend - lifted the door (with food removed from door shelves) off the hinge. This freezer had a water line which we didin't know how to disconnect so we were careful to move the door slightly away from the broken hinge, set it on a stool with one person holding the door steady while the other person installed the new hinge piece. Definitely takes two people (as suggested in the directions) to both lift and guide the door into place. Once it was in place - I reinserted the screws up top and tightened them. Then had to untighten them to get the door to line up as it should vertically - so I would suggest just lighten tighen the upper screws until the door is aligned and swinging smoothly. Then reattached ground wire and plastic coupling. Works great.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

Removed all of the food from the door by lifting the shelves out. Unbolted the top door hinge, and lifted the door off. Replaced the cam and placed the door back on, re-bolted the top hinge and placed all of the food and shelving back into the door. The door closes and seals when it is shut.

Simple. 1st, removed broken part to understand part (water fill tube to freezer, plastic part at top of fill tube cracked). 2nd go on your web site and look at prints to find part number, Study video to understand video. 3rd. Called customer service and lady was very nice and efficient. Placed order and received. Study video again and installed. My 9 year old grandson was visiting from out of town and assisted in installation. Just over 30 minutes to install

Following the instructions on the site I removed the upper hinge cover and hinge(after removing the shelves from the door). I replaced both cams on the bottom hinge, reinstalled the door and the problem was solved. A couple of hints that may speed up the process: 1. On installing the door cam, I didn't get the holes in the door and cam aligned well due to a bit of interference from the metal tab on the door, so I temporarily inserted the upper hinge pivot in the bottom hole and retightened the cam. 2. I decide to re-align the freezer door . After this, the ice and water dispensers didn't work. Turns out the internal freezer light switch which also acts as a cutoff switch for the door dispensers wasn't being activated. Easy to adjust once the cause was discovered.

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

Removed screw that held nozzle on. Pulled old line out far enough to cut off broken nozzle. Attached new line with threaded bolt and clear packing tape. Pulled old line out bottom of door until new line came thru. Removed tape and bolt. Attached new line to water supply. Attached new nozzle with screw. Checked for water leaks. Job complete!

Replacing the support clips was simple. But since the replacements were the same as the ones that had failed, I modified them by epoxying metal strips on each side of the fingers which had failed. Without this mod I think they would have failed very shortly like the original ones did. This added a half hour to the repair.

1, Removed heavy items from door bottom two shelves.
2. With door closed, prop up door with 2x4 boards and wood shim to support door weight.
3. With nut driver, wrench or socket wrench remove lower door hindge.
4. Removed worn plastic door cams and shim.
5. Install new door cams and shim.
6. Install lower door hindge and lubricate cams with silicone grease.
7. Remove wood bracing.

All I had to do was remove the screws at the top of the refrigerator door that hold the top hinge and once that was done I lifted up on the door and it came off. I then flipped the door upside down and was able to replace the door cam on the door and the other cam on the bottom hinge of the refrigerator. Once replaced, I put the door back on and put the screws back in on the top hinge of the refrigerator door. Works great now!