WRS311SDHM12 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Just plugged it in

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

I remove the shelf above of the one that needing repair as well the one that required repair. I carefully place the white shelf frame into the rubber seals on the glass . Thirdly placed everything together.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Take it apart, replace with the new one, put it back together. So simple even a democrat girl could do it.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Replaced drum and reassembled unit.

I followed the instructions on your video.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Replaced motor it was not issue. Now I am stuck with a $300 motor I cannot return. When I say will not dispense ice everyone thinks it does not make ice. Auger does not turn to push ice out the door. Reason I thought it was auger motor when you push lever on door the auger turns about one eight of a turn. So, it would seem it is getting signal and power. Cannot find any articles on this specific issue. If anyone has a suggestion, please share.

i used the instructions that came with the part and it was really simple. thank you very much. it saved me a HUGH repair bill.we use alot of crushed ice and the part shipped in 2 days. thank you.C.D.L.

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

replaced the drum ---- however it would of been more helpful if directions came with the part on how to take off the old drum we had to look on line to see how to do that wants we got that done the rest was a piece of cake

Remove 4 self tap screws holding on front cover/bin handle. Remove 2 self tap screws holding drum cover. Remove 1 self tap screw at back of bin holding door actuating rod and spring, slide forward to disengage. Remove "E" clip and flat washer. Remove plastic nut {clockwise/left hand threads]and remove crusher parts [keep in order removed]. Slide new drum on shaft and reassemble crusher in reverse order. Install drum cover w/2 self tap screws. Install flat washer and "E" clip. Re install actuator rod and spring assy. Install front cover and test in refrigerator. The 2 self tap screws that hold drum cover are easier to remove with a 1/4' drive ratchet and 1/4" socket because of limited space behind actuator rod. This job is a snap to do. I'm sure it's at least $50.00 cheaper than a service call.