WRFF3036RB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Removed 1 small 6.5mm bolt (SAVE!), slid the old part up, disconnected the wire harness, tossed it aside for the kids to apparently play swords with, then connected new wire harness, slid new part down to snap into place, secured with same little bolt and went and played pirates with my 3yr old.

Initially I thought it was the valve that provides water to the ice maker. Days prior to go bad, it was making intermittent noises while filling the ice maker. I couldn't tell if it was the ice maker or not. It doesn't have a way to test it or reset button. So I decided and bought both parts, the valve and the ice maker unit. The installation was pretty straight forward. It takes ~30 minutes to replace. The ice maker ended up being the defective part. The one I got is a little bit different because it have a ON/OFF switch while the original did not. But everything else was exactly the same. Regarding the valve, it was good, so now I have a spare one in case it fails in the future. I'm glad I found this website to get the parts.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Laid the three seals in the sun for an hour and then took and stuck each seal, one at a time, to the door of an adjacent freezer and used the hot air gun to straighten the seals which were bent due to the packaging.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

I noticed the coils very dusty dirty, tried brushing it clean, ended up blowing it clean. I noticed the condenser fan motor was never turning, I had power, so I ordered a new one. I actual received the evaporator motor, so I had to order the correct one. After changing it, and it started blowing right away. But my refrigerator is still warm. I do not know where the evaporator blower motor is located. I cannot make out from the diagram breakdown. HELP