JFFCF72DKM01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

took upparts then put back together.

Opened package. Washed divider. Dropped in place (where indicated by marks) in drawer. Took a nap.

Checked a video on YouTube and found questions and answers to this concern.. All lead to the compressor capacitor. Entered part # on your Website. Capacitor come right up and also suggested a Start Device. I ordered both parts as I was not sure if these parts would fix my problem.
R/R rear panel, found Capacitor and replaced it... Compressor came on and refrigerator operated correctly after defrosting Evaporator coils..

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

I noticed the coils very dusty dirty, tried brushing it clean, ended up blowing it clean. I noticed the condenser fan motor was never turning, I had power, so I ordered a new one. I actual received the evaporator motor, so I had to order the correct one. After changing it, and it started blowing right away. But my refrigerator is still warm. I do not know where the evaporator blower motor is located. I cannot make out from the diagram breakdown. HELP

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

Watched a couple of videos. Removed left side hinge first, then did the same to the right side hinge. Part was installed in reverse order. Installation took less than 60 seconds.

I popped out the old switch with a screwdriver pressing down the tab on the bottom and unplugged the terminals. Then I plugged in the new switch and popped back into the socket. Piece of cake!

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

The best part of the repair was how easy it was to find and order the part. Instead of searching the parts houses around town I just went to the PartSelect web site, quickly found and ordered the part in about five minutes, received the part the next day at my home and was ready to make the repair. Wow! What a pleasure for something to work the way it was meant to. Removed old switch located by prying out with sharp knife or screwdriver. Don't worry about breaking it or cracking plastic. Disconnect(unplug) wires from back of switch. Replace (plug-in) wires on back of new switch. Insert in location of old switch. Finisheed.

installed new parts