1ET25DKXGW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Turn off power. Remove 1 screw to remove the plastic cover (cover snaps out). Snap out socket. Pull off two wires. Plug wires onto new socket. Snap in the socket. Replace the cover and screw. DONE

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I followed instructions, both supplied with gasket, and some I found on-line. Pretty easy - loosen screws holding existing gasket, remove existing gasket, install new one, tighten screws. [TIP - I didn't soak new gasket in hot water before installing - definitely do this to get rid of the "wrinkles" caused by shipping. Throw it in a tub, and let it soak.] The problems I had to iron out were AFTER I installed new gasket. Door alignment shifted, so I loosened all gasket screws, realigned, and then tightened. Then door was not closing (it had dropped for some reason at the handle side), so I had to loosen hinge bolts, push up door, and re-tighten. I had to do this 3 times before door closed right. I also had to heat two sections of the new gasket with blow dryer to smooth gasket. After about two days, the gasket was sealing perfectly. No condensation in fridge, no leaking out bottom. I estimate by putting in a $100 gasket, I saved over $1,500 because my wife was ready to get brand new fridge. Good luck, and be patient if door needs to be realigned. Also - gasket may still have small gaps even after you install and heat it - give it a few days to conform to fridge before trying heat again.