10655128701 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removing the ice making assembly from the Ice compartment was not difficult except that two of the 3 screws we not visible without a mirror and then my nut driver was 5" long making it very tight quarters, so it was a time consuming process to remove them.
Once the 3 screws were removed the wiring harness was easily disconnected and the whole assembly came out.
The next step was to figure out how to remove the faulty part from the rest of the assembly.
After some strong persuasion the part would not separate from the control Assy. (The front of the unit) To complete the job I had to pull the front cover and unplug the motor and heater assy to expose two additional screws that had to be removed to pull the defective part out. The reassembly went quite easy except the 2 screws that you need a mirror to see. I was also trying to hurry because the frozen items were not holding all that well after the door was open for about an hour and a half. An instruction sheet showing the steps would have cut the time over 1/2!

Unpluged the unit and removed the front trim ring.
removed the old parts and installed the new parts.
in reverse order. it took about 12 hour but the dispenser to work but seems to work fine now.

Part was perfect but the internal mounting bracket was broke. super glued mounting bracket and reinstalled switch. Works perfectly. Followed the video that came with the Email and was very easy to find the problem. Thanks.

JUST POP the front panel off and removed the items

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

DISCLAIMER: Technically, you should start by unplugging the frig and turning off the water supply. Though there is nothing on the my frig door that is either electrical or water related, the frig does keep trying to cooling an open area. For the short while I was doing the work, I just didn't want to bother with those precautions. Had I expected the work to take longer or been working on the FREEZER door I would have most certainly have done it "correctly." But I didn't do the freezer door so, first, remove everything from the refrigerator door storage shelves and the shelves themselves. Then lift off the cap that covers the hinge mounting plate on top of the frig. Remove the screws that holds the mounting plate in place. I used a cordless drill/driver with a 1/4" socket on the end but this could be done with a nut driver or socket wrench as well. Of course, take care not to let the door fall when removing the last screw. Then, lift the door off the bottom post that his holding it in place. The door is not too heavy and one person should not have a problem doing this but if you think it might be too heavy get someone to help with this. On the frig door there are no other connectors to be concerned with. NOTE: This procedure is similar for the freezer door but there are electrical and water line connections that need to be addressed before removing the door. Once the door is off the post, lay it down on a flat work service (I used the kitchen table with some towels spread underneath to prevent scratching either the table or the frig door.) There are two pieces that ought to be replaced. One cam on the door and one at the bottom post. Both are attached with a small screw that is removed easily with your nut driver/socket/drill driver. The bottom cam came offer fairly simply but sliding a thin, flat blade screw driver under it and prying it up and off. Replace this bottom cam with a new one and screw it back down. The door cam was, for me, the more difficult item. Removing the screw was easy enough but years of wear and brittleness led it to break off as I was trying to pry it out. I was able to use a small flat blade screwdriver to cave the old plastic post in all around the insert hole until I could get a good hold and pull it out with needle nose pliers. I was tempted to try to drill the old post out but there is a hex shape to the insert hole I was afraid of ruining. Once I got the old cam out, it was a simple matter to re-insert the new cam. Since both the door and lower cams are held on by screws there is only one way they can go back on. Once the cams are back in place, lift the door back onto the post and reattach the mounting plate to the top of the frig. Take some care that the door is level and parallel to the freezer door before completely tightening the mounting screws and replacing the cap that covers the plate. If you did shut off water and unplug the frig you should turn it back on and plug it back in. And do I really need to tell you to put the shelves and stuff back? :) The door should close on its own when close enough to the frig frame that the cam notches slide into place. If it hadn't been for the door cam being so brittle, this repair would have quite simple. Even at that, digging the old post out really wasn't hard but it did take some unexpected effort. If your refrigerator door is not closing properly, this is something anyone with basic skills can do.

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

Door gap occurred, creating a flow of warm air into the ice bin, the ice constantly melted and refroze into one block. This rendered the unit unusable.The paper instructions that come with the kit show very poor photos. I followed the instructions on the video noted below. The only problem with the repair kit is that it does not contain the tinnerman clip that secures the pin in the brackets. However, it seems to be holding without it. And in any case if something goes wrong, I'll check that part first. Joan. Fortunately, this video was available online: Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Chute Door (part #WP2180353)-

My model is not exactly as described in you video (a: the power assembly is snapped in, not bolted on; b) the door hinge is snapped into place, not pushed through a hole in the bracket). One mistake I made was snapping the hinge assembly on the new ice door upside down. I quickly realized my mistake when the door would not close when installed. It may be obvious, but you may want to point this out in the next version of installation video. Regards.

Saw online info video explaining the possible cause and how to fix it. Ordered upper closing cam. Removed top hinge cover and hinge, removed door set it on a table. Removed old cam installed new cam tightened the retaining bolt put the door back on aligned it with freezer door and bolted it down snug. No more noise and it took less the half and hour.

I followed the video provided with the email confirmation for my order. There was one difference with my installation. The video said to remove the pin by pushing to the left. In my case, the right end of the pin had a head on it and pushing it to the left was not possible. I had to remove a "keeper" on the left end of the pin and remove it to the right. Also, the chute/dispenser arm did not remove easily, so I left it in place. Finally, I did not reinstall the heating element as directed by the video since the website said this was no longer necessary. Overall, the repair fixed the problem and I am very happy with my experience with this site

repaired the broken parts, with packing tape.

Watched the video...easy!

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.