WRX735SDHZ03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Bought new cap.

The Condenser Fan Motor was already removed due to searching for the problem. The new fan motor looked different from the original but I felt very comfortable that Part Select had sent me the new part showing original part number changing numbers over the years. Simply placed the fan blades onto the new motor lined up 2 of the holes placed screws and tightened then plugged the wire ribbon into the Condensor Fan Motor, plugged in the Refridgerator and it worked beautifully.

The instruction video on the Part Select Web Site made it so incredibly easy to install. Installation took under 3 minutes!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect
However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed.
It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Open and remove lower cover on filter holder by opening tabs that hold lower cover and remove lower cover.

Firmly hold back of unit and firmly hold and turn filter in counter clockwise to unlock and remove.

Install new filter by holdin back of unit and install new filter by turning in clock wise direction and then replace lower cover.

Removed Phillips head screw on the front cover of both guides. Pull the drawer forward until it stops. Snap up the cover on each geared wheel to allow the basket to lift enough to continue removing the basket.
Swing the front of the guide rail towards the back which allows for the rear tab to come out of its hole.
Put new guide back in following reverse order.
Done!!

I watched a YouTube video real quick to see what I had to do and got to the job at hand. I removed the old gasket by pulling it out of the track and bring it around the front of the drawer. I wiped down the entire area where the new one would go and started inserting it into the groove, making sure it went in completely in on the bottom. I was done in less than 15 minutes. Super easy! This fixed the issue and the freezer door closes fully.

Followed directions on filter unit

Remove and replace

Removed icemaker assembly from refrigerator. Short in wiring damaged the wiring connector and icemaker so both had to be replaced. All other parts were reused. Laid out the wiring harness in similar orientation to existing wiring. Removed any covers to expose wiring connectors. Starting at main plug that connects to refrigerator worked backwards and reconnected new wiring at each connection. A few push type wiring fasteners needed to be removed with needle nose pliers for better access. Confirmed all connections were accurate and reinstalled icemaker assembly. Icemaker working properly after wiring repair and tray replacement.

Just plugged it in

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!