ED25PM Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

One screw hold the dispenser guide in place with the 1119056 Stop. I would recommend buying a new Stop as unknown to me mine was cracked. Check the condition of the stop before ordering just the guide. I had to order a new stop from Sears. Very simple to replace both the guide and stop.

Dual Outlet Valve Kit- Part matched up identical to my unit. Had previously worked on leaking valve but started leaking again. Easy, simple replacement, took about 30 minutes because I installed water filtration kit also. Runs quieter than before, making ice with hardly any notice now. Felt so impressed with myself I replace the defrost timer too in 30 minutes. Runs like a new machine now. Happy customer!

I took the front access panel off by unscrewing the 2 philips screws under the water dispenser tray. The plastic trim piece lifts straight up. The assembly that holds the electronics to operate the ice dispenser and water dispenser is held to the door by two 1/4 hex head screws. You pull that up and out of the way. Then take the metal bracket off that holds the water nozzle to the door. There is a black water supply line that runs down the door and out the hole in the center of the left bottom hinge. (You’ll have to pull off the kick plate at the bottom of the refrigerator to access the connection) It is connected to a compression fitting that attaches to a larger white water supply that runs through the inside of the refrigerator. Feed the new black supply line down through the door (up top) and fish it through until it stops. It most likely will not poke through the hole in the hinge. I took a scratch awl to center the new hose to enable it to poke through the hole in the hinge. Reconnect the compression fitting, put the kick plate back in place, put the electronics back in place as well as the plastic trim piece that goes around the dispenser itself. Sit back, enjoy a glass or water and pat yourself on the back for saving yourself a $100 service call.

Replaced drum and reassembled unit.

I followed the instructions on your video.

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

i used the instructions that came with the part and it was really simple. thank you very much. it saved me a HUGH repair bill.we use alot of crushed ice and the part shipped in 2 days. thank you.C.D.L.

Watched instructional video, read all printed instructions and repair related posts
It's all there. Works great! Thank you!

1. removed old broken arm (w/screwdriver)

2. .....gently placed 'new part' in place (of old)
and one (& only one screw), tightened
slightly.....and presto.....
PRESSED ON NEW ARM.....
..............'WATER FLOWED'..... THANKYOU,
JIM

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Initial problem was water not entering the icemaker. Replacing the valve assembly did not solve the problem. Further investigation revealed the inflow tube to he icemaker had frozen water in it. Cleaned the ice our and water flowed a bit but not enough to fill the tray. Still investigating the problem.

Unplug, turn off water supply, carefully remove lower back cardboard cover, unscrew old valve mount, lay towel down, disconnect the three water lines, modify provided “L” bracket by drilling a hole outboard of one of the slots to match/fit the wider original mount holes on the refrigerator’s bottom pan, screw top/short end of bracket to valve, cut back the two clear lines about 1/2” for a “fresh” end, connect all three lines, position valve and secure with original screws (access is tight, used small 1/4” wrench), turn on water/check for leaks, install back lower cardboard, plug in and verify function.

Remove top henge, lift door off bottom henge, take off old plastic closer put on new one. Door works great now

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.