ED25PM Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

easy - remove the door, replace th part, put back the door

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

We pushed the water return hose up from the bottom of the freezer door then we cut the water hose off then we taped the new water hose to the old one using electrical tape then we pulled and pushed at the same time and ran it back down through the door, be careful when you get to the bottom of the door it might stick a little going through the door , on my first try the tape came off without the new hose coming through. Just run the old one back up through the door and re tape it and try again. The connection at the bottom is just a pull out and push in connection and it won't leak after you push it in.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

After the front panel was removed, disconnected the timer and installed new in reverse order. The provided instructions could be more straight forward, I spent more time reading it than the installation itself.

The repair was easy, I removed the cover on the top front of the fresh food compartment. It housed the defrost timer which was easy to identify and replace. Just removed a screw, unplugged the wires and replaced with the new part. Unfortunately, that wasn't the only problem. I also had to replace the defrost element that the timer sent power to. While I was at it, I replaced the defroster thermostat. The entire repair took under an hour, diagnosing the problem took the most time and effort.

Replacing the support clips was simple. But since the replacements were the same as the ones that had failed, I modified them by epoxying metal strips on each side of the fingers which had failed. Without this mod I think they would have failed very shortly like the original ones did. This added a half hour to the repair.

First I removed the screw holding the ice door shaft (at the rear of the ice container). Removed clip of which the screw was holding in place (no need to remove the clip from the shaft). Then I removed the front cover screws, separated front cover from ice container. Door shaft is removed with front cover assembly, no need to remove anything else from front cover. Pulled out auger shaft, removed circlip (snap ring) and washer from front of shaft. Used an adjustable wrench to remove plastic nut from front end of shaft. CAUTION - the plastic nut is reverse thread, make sure to turn it clockwise to loosen and remove. Pulled off broken auger then reassembled with new auger in the reverse order as previously described.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

Removed screw that held nozzle on. Pulled old line out far enough to cut off broken nozzle. Attached new line with threaded bolt and clear packing tape. Pulled old line out bottom of door until new line came thru. Removed tape and bolt. Attached new line to water supply. Attached new nozzle with screw. Checked for water leaks. Job complete!

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.