HMG651587 Sharp Refrigerator - Instructions

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.

This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.

I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.

I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com

took door off put part in, put door back on. that is it.
The best thing about this fix is the lady that took my order. She knew what my problem was and she knew which part was needed. I give all the credit to her. she did me a fine job. Thank you very much.

Shut off water and electric to refrig. Removed back panel. Removed water line. Removed valve, Disconnected other water line and electrical connections. Installed new valve in the reverse order.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Recently I ordered a defroster element from PartSelect Number PS11743275 Manufacturer Part Number WP61006116 for my Maytag Refrigerator/Freezer Model MSD2354ARW. The part received has two numbers on the bag containing the part #61006198 and WP61006198. It looks similar to the picture but the wire connection has three sockets while the element in my freezer has two. Could I have received an incorrect part?

Where do I go from here?

Thanks,

Shaun English
9318 Brambly Lane
Alexandria, VA 22309
703-229-3317
spenglish@aol.com

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

Followed included instructions. Thank you.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Pulled refrigerator from the wall and took the bottom panel off. The defrost timer is on the right side. Removed screws, pulled old timer out and plugged the new timer in. It couldn't have been simpler.

PartSelect correctly diagnosed the problem and told us the part we needed to fix the issue. This is the second time we've relied on them to help us get an appliance up and running. Great company, they are our go to for parts.

Thanks PartSelect!

Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.

Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.

I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:

Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.

Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.

Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.

Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.

Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.

Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.

Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.

Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.

Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.

Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.

Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.

I removed the two screws from the front door panel, unhooked the wire, removed three more screws and removed the broken door. I replaced the door and replaced everything in reversed order. I did not need to replace the solenoid so I still have that if needed in the future, The instructions were so easy, it took less than 5 minutes and I estimate saving about $90.00 on a sevice call after deducting the cost of the part from PartSelect.
I will check out PartSelect for future repair jobs.

Thanks

Exchange both water valves with new (took me 5 min.)- same brand as original. Nothing else works better. Dont wast your money for Amazon parts or after market.

The video was fantastic provided by Part Select. Only difference I found was the use of shark bite connections, instead of screw on nuts for the top two hoses. Shark bites have to be pressed and removal can be done, would be a good idea for the video.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.