Models > RT21LMXKQ03

RT21LMXKQ03 Roper Refrigerator

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Diagrams for RT21LMXKQ03

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The ice maker works by filling with water from the inlet valve, freezing it into cubes, and then dispensing the cubes into the storage bucket. It will then refill with water and repeat this process un...
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This part is used to help tell the icemaker what to do - it turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. Motor is not sold separately.
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Replacing a broken crisper drawer in your refrigerator is a simple repair that does not require any tools. Simply remove any items from the damaged drawer, and remove the drawer from the fridge. The w...
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The defrost timer works on a predetermined schedule, to alternate between the cooling cycle and the defrost heater in your freezer. When the heating circuit is activated, it melts any ice that has for...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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This condenser fan motor kit is used in icemakers and freezers, the purpose is to circulate air through the condenser in the compressor area in order to keep it cool. If your fridge is making loud noi...
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This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
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Also known as a Water Solenoid Valve. The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
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This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. NOTE: ...
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This genuine OEM part is an end cap for the door shelf retainer bar in your refrigerator. The end cap is used to secure the retainer bar and attach it to the fridge or freezer door. It is made of whit...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for RT21LMXKQ03

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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too warm
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Leaking
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Light not working
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge runs too long
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Too warm
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Clicking sound
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Not dispensing water
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Door Sweating
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Customer:
Max from Green Castle, IN
Parts Used:
4317943
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ice Maker quit working, I could manually cycle unit but then the water would overflow when unit was re-filling.
I backed out the 2 top screws about a quarter inch and then removed bottem screw with a quater inch nut driver. I then lifted Ice Maker clear of the two top screws and lowered it enough to unclip the power connection with a small screwdriver. The new Ice Maker was wired correctley for my refrigeator so all I had to do wea reconnect the power connection and mount new Ice Maker on the two top screws and install the bottem screw. It took e while for the new Ice Maker to start it's cycle but after it did, it worked GREAT. Part Select service was OUTSTANDING, ordered part one day and received the next. THANKS!!!!
584 of 620 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Daniel from Suwanee, GA
Parts Used:
W10190935
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
No ice
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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Customer:
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
Parts Used:
W10822278, WP4387503
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o pens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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