RS20EKXFW01 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

I watched the repair video and did exactly as described. Excellent video and step by step instructions. Follow them and you cannot go wrong.

ordered the parts ,defrost timer and bi-metal thermostat,assumed it would be more practical to replace both than take a chance . watched a video on how to disassemble the control panel and remove the the timer and the back panel of freezer for the bi-metal thermostat,very clear instructions provided .took about 25 minutes to replace both parts and now is working properly again,,Thanks Again PartSelect for the fast service and delivery

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!

It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.

I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.

I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ.
The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.

just as the installation video show (very helpful) however the sheath tube that was pulled off of the old capillary tube did not go back on the new tube near as easy as the video showed. Got it on however and refrigerator is working like a champ now

The parts were reasonably priced, shipped promptly and received in a couple of days. I reviewed a YouTube video before starting that was beneficial. Huge savings over retail repair service. A+ replacement parts house and I would highly recommend.

It's as easy as it can be, but the parts are not the right ones.

Purchased the closing cam (both pieces). Removed door (3 bolts under the dust shield on top of door) and replaced the plastic cam pieces. So easy a caveman could do it. I actually had my 13 year old son do it while I supervised!

Followed instructions that were online when ordering part. Put a adjustable wrench on the square end of the plastic support and twisted upward. Support bracket came off easily. Inserted new part and twisted downward on the square end of the support and it locked in place. Surprised it was so simple.