RS20EKXFW01 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..

The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

I followed the procedures that others described that had the same problem,very handy

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Took out old pieces and popped new ones in, just like that!

I took apart the thermostatic switch and cleaned the contacts (noticed carbon or corrosion dust beneath the switch). I installed the old switch back in the fridge until new switch arrived. This seemed to solve the problem. I ordered a new thermostatic switch and a new defrost timer since these two items if defective, cause similar symptoms to my problem. I replaced both items and the refrigerator has worked normally since. Replacing both parts was straight forward process. Hope this helps.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.