MFI2569VEM10 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

1. Empty your fridge. Lighter is easier to move and this is the hardest step in the fix. 2. Move your fridge so you can get behind it. Unplug the fridge. 3. Use a 1/4in nut driver to remove the screws from the back panel. 4. Remove the back panel. 5. Locate the compressor (big cylinder, usually black) and find the capacitor (PS11757023) and start dev (PS11750123) plugged into the side of the compressor. 6. There is a steel spring restraint wire, remove this. 7. Remove the pin connector (plastic w/ wires going to it) by pressing and pulling gently. Remove the old capacitor and start dev. 8. Assemble the new capacitor and start dev to each other. 9. Plug the pin connector into the new replacement components. 10. Align the start dev to the location of the old components. There is a 3 pin outlet that aligns to the 3 plug holes on the start dev. Align the plug then push gently but firmly to seat the components back together. 11. Reinstall the restraint wire. 12. Reinstall the pack panel. 13. Put your refrigerator back in place and load it up! You're all done!

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

Broken lid popped out, new lid popped in. No tools required. 30 seconds to replace. Great price, part shipped within an hour of placing my order and arrived the next day, although I only paid for standard shipping. Excellent service - will definitely order again if the opportunity arises!

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.

Easy repair. Unwrapped the new cover; pulled the old one off by releasing tabs. Inserted new piece.
Took less than 15 minutes. Looks like new. The replacement part arrived quickly from Part Select.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

Removed broken lid and snapped new one in place.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.

To make the repair:
First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker.
Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection.
Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip.
Disconect the electrical wires.
Pull off the motor cover (no screws).
Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor.
Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray.
Insallation is the reverse.
The schematics were very helpfull.
It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me.
PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!