GS2325GEKW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

1 - Look at the schematic for the "Fountain" on Partselect.com
2 -Order the ice chute door and seal (seal is rubber and eventually it will stop sealing - while you are in there go ahead and change it)
3 - Unplug the refrigerator then remove the sump tray by pulling it straight out from the door
4 - Unscrew the two screws hidden behind the sump tray - hold the dispenser front housing in place so it doesn't drop downward - after removing the two screws slide the dispenser front housing downward while pressing it against the refrigerator door - there are two clips on the back of the housing that hold it against the refrigerator door
5 - Gently pull the dispenser front housing out of the refrigerator door an inch or two - you will be able to see the electrical connections between the dispenser front housing and the refrigerator.
6 - Continue pulling out the dispenser front housing until you can reach the multi-wire connector on the left - the connector is held together by a clip on the bottom center - squeeze the clip at the end closest to the wires to release it - gently pull the connector off
7 - In the center of the back of the dispenser front housing is a black plastic box (the limit switch) - again, gently pull it away from the two clips holing it on
8 - Set the dispenser front housing aside
9 - Slip the water hose out of the clips holding to to the chute
10 - Unscrew the three screws holding the chute to the door (two on the left and one on the upper right - Slide the chute out of the door
11 - Hold the door hinge so you don't accidentally break it (personal experience) and unclip the top then the bottom of the ice cube door from the hinge (the ice chute seal and ice chute door insulation are attached to the ice cube door - take all three out at the same time)
12 - Slip the ice chute seal off of the ice cube door - pull the ice chute door insulation out of the ice cube door
13 - Put the ice chute door insulation into the new ice chute door - Slip the ice chute seal onto the ice cube door (the schematic will give you the proper orientation for all of the parts)
14 - Again holding the door hinge - slip the two "L" shaped clips onto the bottom of the ice chute door - rotate the ice chute door assembly and snap (gently) the two side clips into place over the opening in the door hinge
15 - Breath a breath of relief if you didn't break anything
16 - Slide the chute assembly over the white pin on the lower right of the refrigerator opening that accepts the chute
17 - Replace the three screws that hold the chute assembly to the door - replace the water line
18 - Clip the limit switch onto the back of the dispenser front housing
19 - run the multi-wire connector behind the water line - connect it to the back of the dispenser front housing
20 - Slip the wires back into the clips along the sides of the opening in the refrigerate door
21 - Rest the dispenser front housing on the bottom of the door opening - it must fit flush to the door (top, bottom and sides) - Slide it gently upward until it stops - replace the two screws at the bottom rear of the dispenser front housing - slide the sump tray back in place
22 - Plug in the refrigerator
23 - Dispense ice cubes into a high ball glass and enjoy a job well done

Followed video and used vaseline to lube as suggested by other review.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Took the front panel off,replaced the parts inside on the door ,Replaced the panel ,Tested
Now found out that it is the solniod that is bad ,Part on order ,Thanks

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Problem led to 3 possible problem parts, defrost thermostat, defrost heater or defrost control board. Defrost heater ohmed out to 31 ohms, so seemed good. Defrost thermostat was open when warm but was open after running refrigerator to get freezer side cold enough for thermostat to close, it did not I thought. So I ordered thermostat. Once part came in, I cut up a couple inches on orange and brown wires, stripped off enough to work with. I soldered new one in and heat shrunk the wires. I turned on and it seem to work and all night. Working fine right now.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.

I had to order three times before I got the right part. This was due to my rush to fix the problem and not studing the diagram carefully (black and white diagrams are not that clear). The repair was very simple. Just remove the rubber from the plastic door and slip on the new one.

Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.