GT1928PAHW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

filled both ice cube trays up with water and placed in the freezer.. within hours my ice oproduction was doubled! no more warm cocktails : )

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

Cooling coils froze up. Removed back panel in freezer section. After thawing coils, manually advanced defrost timer to check if fan stopped and defrost (heat) strips energized. Fan did stop, but heating strips did not energize to thaw coils. Used electrical meter to determine circuit was open at defrost thermostat. Ordered replacement and installed in about 20 minutes. No issues so far.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

I removed the 32 screws which held the seal and the interior door panel. Then I removed and replaced the gasket from around the door panel and replaced the 32 screws.

Self-explanatory! Replace were the old shelf was. No screws, or any attaching hardware. Just slide the shelf in were the original one went. Ahh all done and now to put food items on this said shelf. . .

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Just snapped the new one into place, and done!

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

First I used needle-nose pliers to remove broken hooks from the door. (One of the broken hooks slipped down inside the door and could not be retrieved. It will not create a problem is you cannot remove broken hooks.) I examined the hooks against the bracket to check the hook orientation (up or down ... they faced down). Next I searched online for the parts and discovered my door decal model number needed one or more letters, and I could not find the serial number. I only knew it was a 10 year old Maytag model RSW2400E.

All online websites (no matter what model version I used) said the basket door stop brackets were obsolete and no longer available. I finally found Partselect.com and used their easy search system to find pictures and descriptions of the parts. But I could only find parts with upward facing hooks. I was concerned but decided to take a chance and ordered them because they looked like they might fit. I had nothing to lose since the original parts are no longer available. When the new parts arrived, they looked just like the broken ones except for the hook orientation, and the packaging listed them correctly as "STOP. BASKET (LT) part #61004465" and "STOP.BASKET (RT) part #61004466". I held them up to the door (while still in the packaging) and they looked good.

INSTALLATION:
First, I inserted the left-hand bracket hooks into the door panel holes (you can start with either the left or right side) and gave it a little push and it snapped into place. The hooks and the little stop node fit perfectly and flush. YES!

Second, I took the basket, and making sure it was facing the correct direction for tilting in and out, I inserted the basket pivot post into the pivot hole on the stop bracket (making sure that I had the basket frame to the inside of the stop so that the basket would catch and be stopped when tilted out).

Third, I got the right-hand bracket and inserted it onto the other basket pivot post BEFORE I installed the right-hand bracket into the door.

Lastly, while holding the basket and the bracket together, I inserted the bracket into the door and pushed it into place.

I checked the basket operation. It tilted perfectly. There were no clearence issues. WOOHOO! Job done in less than 5 minutes, THANK YOU PARTSELECT.COM

I would only ask Partselect to adjust the online description to "Door Basket Stop - Left Hand and Right Hand" (Door Shelf Retainer Bracket is not correct.)

Removing the broken rail was very difficult. There is a small notch that actually holds it in place. To remove the old rail, there was a hole in the metal bracket next to where the notch was. You had to apply pressure through the hole to the rail to slightly bend it to get it to release the notch to slide the old rail out. After the old rail was removed, the new rail with rack wheel installed, slid in and snapped into place very easily.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed