MFD2561HES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed Freezer drawers.

Removed the 4 screws holding the freezer back cover.

Removed plastic cover off Temperature sensor and the cover that directed the airflow.

Unplugged fan and disconnected the clip holding the motor.

Removed grommets from motor and installed on new motor.

Attached new motor and clip to fridge and reconnected.

Reinstalled back plate and out all 4 screws back in.

Plugged fridge back in and new fan motor was working, and there was an immediate difference in the temp in fridge.

4 days later fridge is working fine

I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

First I removed the plastic light shield. That snaps into place. Next I removed the plastic facade which snaps in from behind. It has plastic mounting points, I had to use a long straight screwdriver to do this. Then I unplugged the old board and replced with new.

I found a similar problem in your forum and desided to give it a shot. The evaporator fan had stop working. It took me a while to find it but I discovered it inside the bottom drawer. I took off the drawer to make it easy to get to. I took off the back cover and there it was. I unplug it and replaced it with the new one which did not look like it at all but since it was the one that I received I pluged it and it worked. I was very satisfied. Thank you again for helping save money.

Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and has to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.
1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.
2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the
Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.
3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided.
4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment.
Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!
Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.
Rodolfo Julao/S. San Francisco, CA

The mullin requires only one screw removal, then LIFT the entire mullin upwards. Pop the wire harness loose, and replace with new mullin. Simple job,

Through out broken plastic, replace with new one
to be replaced in a few years.

about half my time was spent figuring out how drawer front and back panel were held in:
remove wire baskets
lift freezer drawer front to remove
remove ice maker...held in by 3 screws,then unplug
remove back panel screws
then on this model, there is a vent towards the top of the panel that is held in by unseen plastic clips on the top left and top right that had to be pressed in with a screwdriver to remove
unplug freezer evap motor also held together by clips
remove and replace motor (old fan blade pulls off and slides on new motor shaft)
plug motor back in
reinstall back panel
reinstall ice maker
reinstall drawer front and baskets

Ordered a new filter cover, received in 2 days and installed it in about 5 minutes. Worked perfectly.

Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

I opened the freezer door and peeled out the freezer gasket, inserted the new gasket, and closed the door. I repeated this same process for each of the French doors on the refrigerator. This was very easy to do. The only issue is the replacement gaskets don't seem to have any better stick or magnetic hold than the original gaskets, so I'm not sure the repair will improve the energy efficiency / performance of the appliance.