CTL1511GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

Like the others, pull out the freezer baskets on the bottom of the frezzer and remove the condenser coil cover. If the coils are solid ice, you have a problem with the unit not defrosting properly. Defrost the coils with a hair dryer (takes about 30 minutes) to get you back to a fridge that'll work for a few days until the new adaptive defrost control board arrives. Then follow directions provided by all the others to replace the board.

Pull the cover of the top assembley in the fridge forward. remove the screws holding the assembly to the roof of the fridge. The Adaptive Defrost Assy circuit board is locadeted in th reare right hand side.

If you own a Maytag appliance you need to be a handyman or you will go broke keeping them working. I replaced the defrost element in the freezer compartment after defrosting the coils with a heat gun. This did not fix the problem. I then ordered the defrost assy.,adaptive and installed it.
You have to take out the plastic cover in the top of the refrigerator then the screw in the back of the fridge and the two screws in the top by the light bulbs. Then pull the assembly down and the unit is in the top right hand side. Pull it out and install the new one. Everything seems to be working until something else breaks and it will.

The ice cubes started to melt, the water ran down the ice chute and closed the fountain switch which is usually open untill a glass is pressed against it. This caused the ice door solenoid to overheat. It melted the front fountain case it was mounted in and also the plastic ice door mechanism lever was attached to. In fact it even pushed through and melted the back panel case into the styrine insulation. Then at some point, certain components on the fountain control board must have fried out (evidenced by blackening) effectively turning off the power to the melting solenoid and it probably stopped a fire from resulting.
I read somewhere on the internet that 90% of the time, all it takes to start a Gurger that quits is a whack to the temp control inside the fridge compartment. So I tried it and my fridge started right up. What a neat trick! It also said to get a new Cold Temp Control asap because once the contacts stick, they're going to continue to stick. I also ordered all the parts I needed for the fountain repair through PartSelect.com.
I kept my old Gurger running for 3 days by whacking the Cold Temp Control, but now realize that the practice should be classified as a qwick diagnoses method only and not a temporary fix because guess what's mounted right beside the Cold Temp Control under the panel case? Yes - you guessed it (but I didn't)! The fabled and much dreaded ADCB, or "Adaptive Defrost Control
Board"!
After three days of getting whacked, the contacts in the relay mounted on the ADCB gave up the ghost.
After removing the ADCB, I shook it and the relay rattled loudly indicating it was shot. Jump wiring the Cold Temp Control at this point was useless. I should have jump wired the cold temp control to begin with, and pluged and unpluged my old gurger to keep it running while waiting for parts.
While diagnosing the ADCB (with the Cold Temp Control jumped, closed) I noticed I had power on both wires to all motors (circulation fan, evaporator fan, and compressor) which very effectively keeps them from running, and that's what led me to suspect the relay on the ADCB.
The hardest part to installing the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB is putting the large mounting panel back into the top inside of the fridge. Connecting the harness connectors and getting all the wires back in their routing positions while also fitting the temp probe through the hole in the side of the compartment and also the lead to the probe back into it's routing position so that everything fits before the panel can be reattached.
My old regurgertator has been running perfectly now since I put in the new controls, however the fountain control board is still back ordered. When I get it and reassemble, believe me, I will be using plenty of silicon caulking to shield that ice/water contact switch .... somthing somebody at Maytag should of thought of. And as long as they're thinking, why not put some mounting space between the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB so we can whack it in an emergency, and why not make both controls easily serviceable? I'll be looking for these things in the next Gurger I buy. Hope this helps with yours.

I actully did two replacements at one time. I replaced the defrost heater and thermostat plus the adaptive defrost. I chose to replace both as I had no way of diagnosing which was the problem (excecept for the heater of course). Firstly make sure you keep track of where the screws come from when you disassemble the plastic and metal panels. Once the coil is defrosted in the freezer, it is easy to remove the panel covering the coil, then it is very easy to remove and replace the thermostat and heater. Just be careful to route the wires the same way as the origional configuration and do not force anything near the coil evaporator coil as it is only aluminum. The adaptive defrost component is simple to change out, the hard part is to CAREFULLY remove the plastic panels under which is located the adaptive defrost. Again, remember where the screws go and how the parts go together. The video for changing out the adaptive defrost is extremely helpful. Patience, patience and more patience is required when fooling with the bits of plastic. Allow plenty of time to do the project and do not rush. All of the parts go together like a jig saw puzzle but are very logically assembeled. Good Luck, I saved about $300 in doing these fixes my self.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

The repair required no tools and was simple. I ordered the part on Sunday and I received it on Wednesday. The website was very user friendly. I'm very happy and satisfied. Thank you.

At first I had to defrost the radiator unit. I thought the defrost heater and thermostat was bad so I replaced both. A week later same problem. I signed up for your forum and found and exact description of my problem and the possible fix. I ordered the Adaptive defrost unit. I had to remove the light shield which pulled forward and had to push up at rear clips to release. Then removed 3 1/4 screws to drop the light unit. 2 more 1/4 screws to remove the circuit brd (Adaptive Defost unit) and one connector. I re-assembled has worked fine since. Thanks

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

snapped in the new parts - took less than 30 sec. Best part about this company is their incredibly speedy ship time.

Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great