CTL1511GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

I unplugged the fridge. I removed the back panel. Took apart the fan motor housing unhooked the wire harness. Then reassembled the new motor to the housing rehooked the harness. I put the back panel back together and replugged in the fridge and the fan came right on.

The ice cubes started to melt, the water ran down the ice chute and closed the fountain switch which is usually open untill a glass is pressed against it. This caused the ice door solenoid to overheat. It melted the front fountain case it was mounted in and also the plastic ice door mechanism lever was attached to. In fact it even pushed through and melted the back panel case into the styrine insulation. Then at some point, certain components on the fountain control board must have fried out (evidenced by blackening) effectively turning off the power to the melting solenoid and it probably stopped a fire from resulting.
I read somewhere on the internet that 90% of the time, all it takes to start a Gurger that quits is a whack to the temp control inside the fridge compartment. So I tried it and my fridge started right up. What a neat trick! It also said to get a new Cold Temp Control asap because once the contacts stick, they're going to continue to stick. I also ordered all the parts I needed for the fountain repair through PartSelect.com.
I kept my old Gurger running for 3 days by whacking the Cold Temp Control, but now realize that the practice should be classified as a qwick diagnoses method only and not a temporary fix because guess what's mounted right beside the Cold Temp Control under the panel case? Yes - you guessed it (but I didn't)! The fabled and much dreaded ADCB, or "Adaptive Defrost Control
Board"!
After three days of getting whacked, the contacts in the relay mounted on the ADCB gave up the ghost.
After removing the ADCB, I shook it and the relay rattled loudly indicating it was shot. Jump wiring the Cold Temp Control at this point was useless. I should have jump wired the cold temp control to begin with, and pluged and unpluged my old gurger to keep it running while waiting for parts.
While diagnosing the ADCB (with the Cold Temp Control jumped, closed) I noticed I had power on both wires to all motors (circulation fan, evaporator fan, and compressor) which very effectively keeps them from running, and that's what led me to suspect the relay on the ADCB.
The hardest part to installing the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB is putting the large mounting panel back into the top inside of the fridge. Connecting the harness connectors and getting all the wires back in their routing positions while also fitting the temp probe through the hole in the side of the compartment and also the lead to the probe back into it's routing position so that everything fits before the panel can be reattached.
My old regurgertator has been running perfectly now since I put in the new controls, however the fountain control board is still back ordered. When I get it and reassemble, believe me, I will be using plenty of silicon caulking to shield that ice/water contact switch .... somthing somebody at Maytag should of thought of. And as long as they're thinking, why not put some mounting space between the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB so we can whack it in an emergency, and why not make both controls easily serviceable? I'll be looking for these things in the next Gurger I buy. Hope this helps with yours.

I actully did two replacements at one time. I replaced the defrost heater and thermostat plus the adaptive defrost. I chose to replace both as I had no way of diagnosing which was the problem (excecept for the heater of course). Firstly make sure you keep track of where the screws come from when you disassemble the plastic and metal panels. Once the coil is defrosted in the freezer, it is easy to remove the panel covering the coil, then it is very easy to remove and replace the thermostat and heater. Just be careful to route the wires the same way as the origional configuration and do not force anything near the coil evaporator coil as it is only aluminum. The adaptive defrost component is simple to change out, the hard part is to CAREFULLY remove the plastic panels under which is located the adaptive defrost. Again, remember where the screws go and how the parts go together. The video for changing out the adaptive defrost is extremely helpful. Patience, patience and more patience is required when fooling with the bits of plastic. Allow plenty of time to do the project and do not rush. All of the parts go together like a jig saw puzzle but are very logically assembeled. Good Luck, I saved about $300 in doing these fixes my self.

I had called a repairman and was told that the part alone would cost me $300 and, when he had finished diagnosing everything, he told me to buy a new refrigerator based on needing a "computer". I paid him his charge to come out and even considered buying a new fridge, but we couldn't find one that would fit the narrow space we have the way this model does. (We also have a funky seal that we will maybe replace sometime and I have since purchased the actuator pad.) I read all the posts before I decided we could do it. It was easy with all the instructions people included. I did have a bit of difficulty fitting the new plastic covered module into the space the old one was in, but with it tipped at an angle I was able to screw everything back in place. My only problem now is that the refrigerator is very cold (30-32) even with the temperature control near the bottom setting - but nothing in the fridge is frozen. My husband and I are not real handy and we always fuss at each other when we do this type of thing together, but we did okay because anytime we had a question I would pop back to the computer and read what others said about performing the repair. I would not have even attempted this without all the helpful repair stories. This is a great help - and I almost spent $1,200 on a cheap new fridge. Even though I paid the guy $75 and purchased this part with next day shipping, I figure I saved $1,000! It has been four years since I had this same part replaced under a maintenance contract and I was completely ignorant to how much they would have charged me at the time. If I get another four years out of this unit I will be happy. I also might just keep fixing it with the help of PartSelect! Thanks everyone for your help.

My refrigerator would stop cooling and some googling led me to the PartSelect page where I learnt why this could be happening. For the first time, I just used a hair-dryer to remove all the ice from the freezer. But when I ran into the same problem about 15-20 days later, I decided to replace the ADP board. I ordered the part from PartSelect and it arrived promptly.

I started out looking into the freezer section for the ADP board, but after spending 15-20 minutes there, realized that the ADP board is in the refrigerator section. Dont make the same mistake. It took me some time to take the top-panel out but the instructions by others were awesome. Another note: the ADP board is on the inner-side (hidden side) of the top panel. So, you have to actually pull down the top-panel after taking out all the screws. Getting the existing ADP board was a little hard as well and I ended up breaking the latch that holds it securely with the connector (but not a problem since I was going to throw the old ADP board anyway).

Overall, I was quite happy to fix this myself. Thanks and kudos to PartSelect for hosting this forum.

Like the others, pull out the freezer baskets on the bottom of the frezzer and remove the condenser coil cover. If the coils are solid ice, you have a problem with the unit not defrosting properly. Defrost the coils with a hair dryer (takes about 30 minutes) to get you back to a fridge that'll work for a few days until the new adaptive defrost control board arrives. Then follow directions provided by all the others to replace the board.

At first I had to defrost the radiator unit. I thought the defrost heater and thermostat was bad so I replaced both. A week later same problem. I signed up for your forum and found and exact description of my problem and the possible fix. I ordered the Adaptive defrost unit. I had to remove the light shield which pulled forward and had to push up at rear clips to release. Then removed 3 1/4 screws to drop the light unit. 2 more 1/4 screws to remove the circuit brd (Adaptive Defost unit) and one connector. I re-assembled has worked fine since. Thanks

snapped in the new parts - took less than 30 sec. Best part about this company is their incredibly speedy ship time.

The repair required no tools and was simple. I ordered the part on Sunday and I received it on Wednesday. The website was very user friendly. I'm very happy and satisfied. Thank you.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.