CTL1511GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Just used a screw driver. It was real simple.

First I tried to remove the plastic cowling surrounding the evaporator fan, but I just couldn't get all of the fasteners to let go. So, I removed all of the screws that held in the back of the freezer compartment. Once the back was loose, I was able to tilt it forward and then remove the fan cowling. The fan motor was then easy to remove and replace. (I verified that the motor was the problem by checking the voltage in the blue and white wires that feed the motor - the voltage was at zero when the refrigerator temperature switch was set to zero, but went to 120V when I moved the switch above the zero position.) I then replaced the back of the freezer compartment and the refrigerator is cold as it ever was.

First, the part arrived within 2 days of ordering. And this part wasn't available anywhere but here. Here's how hard it was to fix:

Open package. Glance over instructions. Slide shelf in groove. Align drawers and mount to shelf.

Done.

The frig had broken brackets on the inner door. I connected the clips to the trim piece and I snapped the entire piece into the slots on the door. Presto! All finished.

Found a similar problem listed on your website and did the exact same procedure. Replaced the board with the new module just as described.

Waiting to see if it works. Won't know for a while since it takes a month or so to ice up. Will inspect the coils then to see if auto defrost is working.

Old board had a chattering sound from the relay. Haven't heard that with the new one as of yet.

I feel pretty confidant it's OK now.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed top plastic cover from inside the fridge.Removed 5 little screws with phillips screwdriver and nutdriver . Unplugged the old defrost assembly and plugged in new one.replaced screws and snapped cover back on. It took about 15 minutes and the fridge works fine.

This was the second part we replaced. The first part was the Temperature Control Assy; which had been replaced several weeks earlier by a repairman, seemed to fix the problem for a few weeks and then the problem returned. Thinking the part might be bad we replaced it again with no luck. Based on the information from other repair stories with similar problems we tried the Defrost Assy, Adpative. We hadn't put all the covering parts back so replacing this part was relatively easy. At first we didn't think this part fixed the problem either, but after a few days of monitoring the temps in the refrigerator & freezer it seems to have corrected the problem. It has been several weeks and the temps are holding.
The most difficult part of the repair is removing the cover plate to gain access to the parts. There are clips that have to be released, and thanks to another repair story we were able to get that done. Also, we accessed the data on our refrigerator from this site (from the parts lists and obtained the drawings) so we were able to identify each part. Otherwise the repairs were removing one part and replacing it with the new parts (screws and connectors).
Since this site (unlike some of the others) had listed the Defrost Assy with additional model information we ordered our part from PartSelect as we didn't want to receive a part that wouldn't fit. The part was perfect and we have a working refrigerator FINALLY!

After reading many stories posted on your site, especially the one mentioning the impedance of the heating coil circuit (22 ohms and 240 kohms). I ordered the adaptive defrost assembly from your website and completely defrosted the whole frig and freezer. I removed the cover above the top shelf ( I broke a small piece of the plastic cover in the process inadvertently even though I was very careful). Then I removed the two screws near the two lights on the ceiling, one screw on the back wall, and two others that held the old adaptive defrost assembly in place. When I was installing the new one which came with a plastic two-piece-clapped-together cover, the two old screws that held the old assembly in place appeared to be redundant, since the new cover can be safely clapped in place. The easiest way to install the new assembly is to take the bare assembly out of the cover and connect it with the connector first, then put the cover back on it. Afterwards, I just put everything back in the revered order. One thing I do need to mention is that right after installing the assembly, no influx of cooling air was felt from the opening on the ceiling cover, it lasted for 6-8 hrs until everything became normal. In addition, the thermostat on the top cover needs to be adjusted for several times in the next a few days to reach the intended temperature. This can be monitored by placing a thermometer inside the frig/freezer.

Your website is invaluable for people like me who like to repair things to save money and to enjoy the process of fixing things.

The control unit is located in the top of the refridgerator side. Remove the plastic housing. Keep track of where the screws came from. Two screws hold in the circuit board. The circuit board is on the right at the rear of the compartment. The old board has no cover. Plugged it in, put it back together and its working like a champ! Even the ice maker started working again.
Not a hard job to do.

Removed top section of refrig. 2 screws hold cover
over thermostat. One screw in very back. Defrost printed circuit board is in right-hand top. It must be
made with cheap components. Maytag should have it corrected and give you a new one. For anybody's info it makes a lot of poping noise and
I've also had to replace thermostat in ice maker and the water has stuck open one time to the ice
maker, luckly I was home.

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

This was second time I had to replace the Defrost Board. Last time was very difficult due to not understanding the instructions. This time I watched the video a couple of times, then went thru the steps in the video. It was much easier this time.

Repair went well.