CTL1511GEW Magic Chef Refrigerator - Instructions

The frig had broken brackets on the inner door. I connected the clips to the trim piece and I snapped the entire piece into the slots on the door. Presto! All finished.

This was the second part we replaced. The first part was the Temperature Control Assy; which had been replaced several weeks earlier by a repairman, seemed to fix the problem for a few weeks and then the problem returned. Thinking the part might be bad we replaced it again with no luck. Based on the information from other repair stories with similar problems we tried the Defrost Assy, Adpative. We hadn't put all the covering parts back so replacing this part was relatively easy. At first we didn't think this part fixed the problem either, but after a few days of monitoring the temps in the refrigerator & freezer it seems to have corrected the problem. It has been several weeks and the temps are holding.
The most difficult part of the repair is removing the cover plate to gain access to the parts. There are clips that have to be released, and thanks to another repair story we were able to get that done. Also, we accessed the data on our refrigerator from this site (from the parts lists and obtained the drawings) so we were able to identify each part. Otherwise the repairs were removing one part and replacing it with the new parts (screws and connectors).
Since this site (unlike some of the others) had listed the Defrost Assy with additional model information we ordered our part from PartSelect as we didn't want to receive a part that wouldn't fit. The part was perfect and we have a working refrigerator FINALLY!

First I tried to remove the plastic cowling surrounding the evaporator fan, but I just couldn't get all of the fasteners to let go. So, I removed all of the screws that held in the back of the freezer compartment. Once the back was loose, I was able to tilt it forward and then remove the fan cowling. The fan motor was then easy to remove and replace. (I verified that the motor was the problem by checking the voltage in the blue and white wires that feed the motor - the voltage was at zero when the refrigerator temperature switch was set to zero, but went to 120V when I moved the switch above the zero position.) I then replaced the back of the freezer compartment and the refrigerator is cold as it ever was.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed top plastic cover from inside the fridge.Removed 5 little screws with phillips screwdriver and nutdriver . Unplugged the old defrost assembly and plugged in new one.replaced screws and snapped cover back on. It took about 15 minutes and the fridge works fine.

Found a similar problem listed on your website and did the exact same procedure. Replaced the board with the new module just as described.

Waiting to see if it works. Won't know for a while since it takes a month or so to ice up. Will inspect the coils then to see if auto defrost is working.

Old board had a chattering sound from the relay. Haven't heard that with the new one as of yet.

I feel pretty confidant it's OK now.

After reading many stories posted on your site, especially the one mentioning the impedance of the heating coil circuit (22 ohms and 240 kohms). I ordered the adaptive defrost assembly from your website and completely defrosted the whole frig and freezer. I removed the cover above the top shelf ( I broke a small piece of the plastic cover in the process inadvertently even though I was very careful). Then I removed the two screws near the two lights on the ceiling, one screw on the back wall, and two others that held the old adaptive defrost assembly in place. When I was installing the new one which came with a plastic two-piece-clapped-together cover, the two old screws that held the old assembly in place appeared to be redundant, since the new cover can be safely clapped in place. The easiest way to install the new assembly is to take the bare assembly out of the cover and connect it with the connector first, then put the cover back on it. Afterwards, I just put everything back in the revered order. One thing I do need to mention is that right after installing the assembly, no influx of cooling air was felt from the opening on the ceiling cover, it lasted for 6-8 hrs until everything became normal. In addition, the thermostat on the top cover needs to be adjusted for several times in the next a few days to reach the intended temperature. This can be monitored by placing a thermometer inside the frig/freezer.

Your website is invaluable for people like me who like to repair things to save money and to enjoy the process of fixing things.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

First, the part arrived within 2 days of ordering. And this part wasn't available anywhere but here. Here's how hard it was to fix:

Open package. Glance over instructions. Slide shelf in groove. Align drawers and mount to shelf.

Done.

Bought it used. Worked fine for 32 days, past the warranty, then started getting too warm. Called a tech who didn't find anything. Checked here and saw 3 parts that might be at fault: refrig. temp control, freezer temp control, defrost timer. The time was most expensive so I started with refrig. temp control. Didn't help. Bought freezer temp control. Didn't help. Discovered that condenser fan motor was sticking. Replaced it but didn't solve problem. Finally bought defrost timer. That fixed it. Works fine now. Replacing parts was easy, requiring only simple tools.

Removed top section of refrig. 2 screws hold cover
over thermostat. One screw in very back. Defrost printed circuit board is in right-hand top. It must be
made with cheap components. Maytag should have it corrected and give you a new one. For anybody's info it makes a lot of poping noise and
I've also had to replace thermostat in ice maker and the water has stuck open one time to the ice
maker, luckly I was home.

The control unit is located in the top of the refridgerator side. Remove the plastic housing. Keep track of where the screws came from. Two screws hold in the circuit board. The circuit board is on the right at the rear of the compartment. The old board has no cover. Plugged it in, put it back together and its working like a champ! Even the ice maker started working again.
Not a hard job to do.

I had a problem with the refrigerator cooling down. I looked in the freezer and the freezer wasn't doing much better as frost had ended up covering all of the vents for the cold air to circulate through the entire system. I had an appliance repair man come out to fix the fridge as it had the same problem about a year and a half ago. I checked the part that he had fixed and figured it was the adaptive defrost controller. I ordered the part and found the controller in the upper back right hand corner of the fridge under the temp control/lights.

First step was to slide out the temp control outer housing by finding the two holes in the back and pulling out evenly. There were about 5 screws that needed to be removed to access the adaptive defrost control under the inner housing. I detached the old control unit and put in a new one. The unit works perfectly now with no problems.

This was very quick and easy and I saved a ton of money doing it myself instead of calling a repair man.

I called the repair folks when I first had the issue. I had frost build-up and the repairman said it would $400-500 to fix. He said I needed a new 'computer chip'. I left him leave and paid the $45 for the diagnosis.
I turnedoff the fridge and freezer by moving the levers to off. I removed the top plastice housing with the nut screw and screwdriver in the refrigerator (side by side unit). - 6-7 total screws. I took off the flashing to expose the wires and Defrost element. It looked different since it was not in a white casing like the picture. I unhooked the prongs from the old adapter and plugged in the new adapter. Put the housing back in place and put thescrews back in. Not too difficult. Hardest part was getting the one screw back in on the left side near the lightbulb.

Followed online dianostic routine to find problem, eliminated possibilities until only problem was discovered, which was the defrost timer. Hardest part was all the dianostics and locating the defrost timer. The timer is somtimes located at the bottom of the frig. or in my model in the refrigerator compartment. Once I fould and removed the screws replacing the actual timer was simple and only took about 10 mins.

Repair went well.