LFD25860SW LG Refrigerator - Instructions

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.

Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.

Watched a couple of YouTube videos and then went at it

Pops right In

Removed screws and the plastic shelf tops from the broken shelf. These parts are sold separately. Do NOT throw anything away until you know you have what you need.
Gentle pull the shelf to spread it enough to get the plastic pieces in. This is the only hard part. Screw the slides onto the new frame. Snap the covers into the crisper fronts. You’ll want to force them in but don’t. They will snap and break.

Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock

After noting frost in freezer Right rail started to jam. Noted freezer door was closing crooked. Rail replacement resolved issue. It had been frosting up for some time so Rail must have been broken for a while. Check door seals they were not closing flush.

Food off top of shelf, drawers come out, glass tops come off, lift the whole unit up (can be a little heavy. Tilt sideways to angle past doors (remove door's lower bins as needed by removing food and lifting up). Turn upside down, remove 3 screws from metal rod and remove metal rod (may require prying out with screwdriver). Remove textured plastic top pieces from each side; some flexing is required to get one side up, then the other. Remove two hinged drawer covers by pinching in at their hinge points.

This is your last chance to clear all the walls, floor, and ledges at the bottom of your fridge. Just sayin'.

Put new shelf upside down on counter. Transfer metal rod to new shelf, screw it in. Transfer hinged drawer covers. Transfer textured plastic topic pieces, again putting one side (of each) in first and flexing unit a little to get other side in. Turn right side up and angle back into refrigerator.

Bring shelf flat and push to the back of the refrigerator until it is flush with the back. Lower whole unit until it rests on top of the side rails where drawers slide in. Left side has a tongue that will fit into a 2" or so notch near the front, right side will rest on top of a round bumper. Front coldness control should still operate smoothly. Put drawers in to make sure they glide and close smoothly. Put glass shelf on top and press down lightly to make sure lower shelf is stable and glass fits neatly into its plastic frame. Replace any door bins you removed.

Ta da!

Verified that the contact switches were good. Issue was in the main board. Pulled fridge out from wall. Unplugged fridge from wall socket.
Took out 3 screws holding cover of main board. Unplugged main board. Replaced main board and reconnected plugs to main board. Replaced cover with 3 screws. Pushed fridge back against wall.

Followed instructions online

I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Simply removed old gasket. Started in a corner with installing the new gasket. It went in easily and quickly.

Covered the sidewall with tape to protect. Pried the switch out with knife blade and removed electric plug with needle nose pliers. placed plug in new switch and pushed switch into the hole in the side wall. Took about five minutes.

Remove two screws on top of the fridge; removed old switch and inserted new switch. Worked like a charm. Replace casing and screws.