LFD25860SW LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Insert one side and squeeze other side to slip in.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

viewed video and followed instructions was a piece of cake

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

Part arrived with a broken window . I was able to use the old window from the broken part . I installed the new part in under three minutes .

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new switch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

Removed screws and the plastic shelf tops from the broken shelf. These parts are sold separately. Do NOT throw anything away until you know you have what you need.
Gentle pull the shelf to spread it enough to get the plastic pieces in. This is the only hard part. Screw the slides onto the new frame. Snap the covers into the crisper fronts. You’ll want to force them in but don’t. They will snap and break.