KBRS20ETSS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The old gasket peeled out easily. No tools needed. The replacement gasket fit right in the groove. I did not need to immerse the gasket in warm water or use a hair dryer. Nifty trick: once the new gasket is in place, close the freezer door. Run your finger in the center groove of the gasket, which will push the magnet against the fridge. Leave the door closed for an hour. The gasket has then assumed a perfect fit and will continue to fit perfectly.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

unsrewed the back plate, removed three tubes. Then I removed old valve and replaced with new. Pluged two harnesses back in the new valve. Truned water on and checked for leaks and operated the filtered water tap and the ice maker. All went well.
I really like your site for the pictures included with the part, I like to see what I'm ordering.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

The repair was very simple, you just remove the existing part that is held in place by two holes in the lid and insert the new lid. very easy.

Replaced the left side endcap for the drawer. Three screws and it popped out. Easy process once I actually looked at it. Drawer cover now works as designed. Replaced inline water filter. Not problem there.

I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrived it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

The peg on the door broke off the left end cap. This seems to be a bad design on the part of amana. It's happened twice now. Very fragile. The repair was so easy that my wife tackled it while I was at work because I was too busy to do it. She said the only problem was removing all the trays, shelves, and drawers out of the fridge and putting that back together which is a bit cumbersome and tricky. The actual part removal and replacement is straight forward once the other stuff is removed to get to the screws that are holding the end cap on. When I did it for the right end cap it was a bit more challenging because there were more parts that had to come off and go back on. I am happy that this can be easily repaired, but not happy with amana that the sliding drawer and door are so susceptible to breakage at the two pegs. This is a flaw in the design.

This kind of repair makes me love the internet. Thank you. Follow advice of my fellow posters but beware, all your plastic parts are very brittle from the cold. Proceed slowly. As mentioned by others but worth stressing is...do resist the temptation to force any piece...I could just see myself snapping one of these pieces and having to order another part! Take your time to work out the sequence to disengage each piece in turn. It's a bit of a puzzle but take your time. Also suggest starting the job with a nice bowl of warm baking-soda water to gently and effectively clean everything as you go.