KSSC36QTS10 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Easily removed old filter and inserted the new one

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

I went online and watched a U-tube video that said it was most likely the electronic emitter and receiver boards and showed how to replace them. I first unplugged the appliance (just to be safe) then, I unscrewed the screws holding the faceplate on. The board simply has a plug which you unplug with a little care and effort. I then plugged in the new board, resituated it into the hole and screwed the faceplate back on. You simply do the same for the other board on the other side. Viola! Lots and lots of ice!! The guy at sears said I shouldn't do work on such a complex appliance. Probably because I am a woman! Anyone can do this job! Winning!

My icemaker quit 3 years back and at that time I searched for do-it yourself repair books with no success. I found this parts place web site and people having the same problems as myself. I purchased the parts as others have and problem solved! Ice all the time, woo hoo!

After unplugging refrigerator, removed emitter and receiver cover plates on each side of freezer unit (3 screws each) and mounting screws for circuit boards. Unplugged old boards and plugged in new ones and reinstalled boards and then cover plates. Although, indicator code lights seem to still indicate a problem, ice maker has resumed operating after 24 hr.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

pulled oil filter out put new one in maybe 10 minutes

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

i first removed the ice maker and took the motor assembley off. Right away i saw the problem. The wheel which drives the arm broke.
Once i get the new motor modl i just replaced it (it just pops into place with 1 or 2 screws).
put ice maker back in freezer and wola. Starting cranking out ice within 15 minutes.

1) unplug the refrigerator
2) remove the cover plate for the sensor board on your left facing the refrigerator
3) unplug the sensor board then remove the board from the cover plate.
4) install the new board onto the cover plate and
reinstall the board in to left side of the freezer compartment.
5) repeat this proces for the right side of the freezer compartment.
The two boards are very different and you will have no problem telling the difference between them.
6)Plug the refigerator back in and observe the red indicator light on the right hand side of the freezer compartment (it should be blinking) . Then hold down the flap on the left hand side and the blinking red light should go solid on. If it hasn't you have another problem with the ice maker.

Did not have elec. schematics or instructions, thought the problem may be the emitter/receiver. Ordered these parts, and included in the package were instructions for testing the e/m bd. Followed instructions for testing the e/m and determined the e/m was OK. Did not remove the boards from the box. Checked the internet and found schematic for the ice maker, tested and determined the ice maker was faulty. Problem solved.

Tough part was diagnosing the problem: bad water inlet solenoid, frozen inlet line, bad ice maker motor, or door opening sensor? Went to a parts shop & discussed the problem with the serviceman. He said you just need to sequentially replace each part. No way say I, that could cost $300 with a no-part return option.

I decided to replace the motor...Eureka!! It worked.
The underside of the ice maker cartridge has a plastic snap clip on either side of the cartridge. You need push each up, pull the left side of the cartridge out part way & disconnect the electrical connector on the right side(left..you facing the refrig.) With the cartridge out simply remove the 5 screws from the motor plate of the left side & replace with the new one.
Very simple. Slide the cartridge back in the frig. until the 2 snap clips click. Voila...you done! Cost $86..not $300. Apparently the motor is too weak to do the job & burns out quickly. Manufacturer should correct this defect.

Replaced the emitter/receiver and it worked after that. Very easy.

Being 50 miles from the Sears with a 7 year old unit, I actually changed out both board (a kit) which was 9 screws. 3 screws in the outside panels, and 2 in the larger board, and 1 on the smaller board. Both both boards plug in. I also changed the actual ice maker which unplugs and slides out on my unit. Remove a single screw (1/4") on bottom to remove a plastic shield that covers/protects the plug in. A plastic arm lock is in the bottom guide tray, push it up first. Then unplug the unit. Three more 1/4" screws in bottom to remove the custom plastic mount. Then reverses the process to install the new ice maker. Total $175 plus 1 hour labor. In 6 months the unit will have paid for the repairs. I hope to get 5 years of service from the job

First I removed the icemaker and the sensor boards by removing 6/7 screws. Next, I placed the new sensors into the emitter and receiver and re-installed the components...reset the icemaker and was all done!

Last time my icemaker broke I paid a contractor $225! This time I did it myself in 30 minutes and saved $150. And it was so easy my wife could'a done it......