KBFS25EVWH0 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00

1. Empty your fridge. Lighter is easier to move and this is the hardest step in the fix. 2. Move your fridge so you can get behind it. Unplug the fridge. 3. Use a 1/4in nut driver to remove the screws from the back panel. 4. Remove the back panel. 5. Locate the compressor (big cylinder, usually black) and find the capacitor (PS11757023) and start dev (PS11750123) plugged into the side of the compressor. 6. There is a steel spring restraint wire, remove this. 7. Remove the pin connector (plastic w/ wires going to it) by pressing and pulling gently. Remove the old capacitor and start dev. 8. Assemble the new capacitor and start dev to each other. 9. Plug the pin connector into the new replacement components. 10. Align the start dev to the location of the old components. There is a 3 pin outlet that aligns to the 3 plug holes on the start dev. Align the plug then push gently but firmly to seat the components back together. 11. Reinstall the restraint wire. 12. Reinstall the pack panel. 13. Put your refrigerator back in place and load it up! You're all done!

Beware - the website does not indicate that doors are different sizes on this model refrigerator. Not paying attention I ordered 2 of the same size gasket which only fit the right side door - had to send one back and reorder left side from Whirpool directly.

The actual installation is very easy. It may take a day or so the gasket to feel like its actually making a good seal.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

First turned off the water at the valve. Next I undid the 5 screws holding the plate that holds the pump. Next disconnected the power connectors, then the water lines. Next undid the screw holding the pump, removed pump. Next, mounted the new pump to the plate, this was tricky because it has to fit kind of upside down, so you have to wrangle it into the proper position then align the screw hole. Next, secured it to the plate with the screw, re-connected the water lines, then the power. Before mounting it back to the fridge, I tested to see if it worked, well, it didn't. My heart sank. I re-checked all connections, I redid the entire process, disconnected and re-connected and still did not work. I researched the problem online and someone posted maybe the water filter might be clogged or defective. So I removed the water filter and put the stop plug in, and it worked perfectly. I went and exchanged the filter and plugged it in and still had the same problem. I am now suspecting the filter receptacle is the fault, but we will do without that for the time being. But the pressure is much better so changing the pump was still necessary. All in all a very interesting repair. I learned a lot about how the system works and now I need to replace the damper, it is very noisy.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I removed the switch assemble from the panel with a Swiss Army knife. Disconnected the two wires and reversed the process with the new switch. Not being all that handy, I assumed the job would be very involved, but was very pleased that it was nearly effortless. A less than 15 minute operation.

Removing the right side panel of the lower drawer was a slightly more involved, requiring the removal of 3-4 screws and replacing the inner workings of the temperature adjustment workings on the new panel. But it proved pretty simple and only required about 20 minutes start to finish.

Old gasket was pulled off with ease. New gasket came folded in-half in cardboard box and was flattened in several places. It was reshaped with ease with the heat from ny wife's hair dryer. Insrallatint took about 5 minutes and seal was perfect. Took less than 15 minutes total.

First, selecting the right part is more difficult than the repair. My Kenmore is an outdated model actually manufactured by Whirlpool.

Once I got the part I relaxed the gasket with a hair dryer - an important step suggested by PS. I then took old of the old gasket and removed it. The new one fits in the channel. Just press and make it is completely installed and flush.

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the inside of the door's lower hinge assembly.