KRFF707ESS01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

We were misled into believing we needed to replace the door seal, and after this replacement was completed we found out it was not the case.

Instead we needed to clean out the EXTENSION-DRAIN,DUAL EVAP W11661573, part #5 on the unit diagram, which is found on the back of the unit.

Back to the seal instructions:
Once you remove the original seal you cannot reuse it, so if you replace it and it is not what you needed, you can't return the not-needed part. There goes about $190.

Also, the seal comes with no instructions (at the time there was no instruction video here either and we had to search other sites). It turns out it takes at least 24 hrs for the rubber seal to regain its shape. You also may have to use a hair dryer for this pre-installation process. Because of this, I marked the time of repair as more than 2 hours.
The end of the instruction video we followed called for testing the new seal installation with a bill ($), if you can pull it out easily from the closed door, you need to continue heating the seal with the hair dryer to improve sealing.

So do yourself a favor and test you fridge seal first, to see if you really need to replace it. Close the door with a bill or paper trapped. If it is loose or falls out, seal needs to be replaced, if the bill/paper stays firm enough, the seal is fine.

It took a lot of research through other resources, not Partselect, to eventually fix the ice formation issue. From all the appliance repairs I have done, this was the most frustrating, although not the most complicated. Since no part needs to be purchased (though you could replace the drain tube for just $24 instead of hassle to clean it), no real help from parts stores is available, and you have to rely on random people with their home videos, some are reliable some are not. We could not find one with our model (596.72383411) and had to figure it out based on similar models. Our drain tube has a siphon, so it is a little harder to clean than other models with s straight tube.

Good luck!

I removed the ice bucket and motor cover on the inside of the left door. Then I removed the 4 screws that hold the motor in place and unplugged the electrical connector. The old motor shaft was all rusted and housing was cracked letting water inside the motor. That's why it failed. The new motor I ordered from Part select came with a rubber seal that I slipped on to the motor shaft. That will stop any water from entering the new dispencer motor. I reinstalled motor and the dispencer works great. Total time for removal and replace was 20 min. A novice can do it. Bill WI.

There is a good YouTube vid on how to extract the old LED without damaging the liner of the appliance. (Use a one inch plaster spatula and some blue painters tape). VERY IMPORTANT: The freezer LEDs and the one that was out in the fridge compartment are in series on the same circuit. I found out by trial and error after a frustrating start. If one or two are bad they all go out like a christmas light string. So be patient and keep replacing bulbs until they all come on. Then you can test each one you took out to see if it was bad or not by putting it back online. At first I was annoyed that Part Select may have sent the wrong replacement items but they were in fact correct. These bulbs are not cheap so make sure the ones you take out are truly burned out.

I think the lights are wired in series. When the light in the freezer goes bad several lights in the refrigerator go out but are still good. Replace the lamp in the freezer and all the lights in the refrigerator work again. The only tools I used was a 1" scraper and a very small flat screwdriver to pop the lamp assembly out. Not much room to work in so it was a bit of a job getting the wire connector where it needed to be but not to bad..

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Pull out freezer drawer and unscrew 2 bolts holding freezer door. Remove top tray retaining pins...remove top tray...then remove bottom tray...remove 4 screws in the back of the freezer...remove cover...unplug all wires connecting the fan...remove fan housing...swap parts from old motor to new motor...then reinstall fan and reconnect wires...replace back cover and then screws in the four bolts and reinstall the drawers and then the freezer door

Unscrewed the old one and put the new one in
Some water on shelf of fridge
Overall not bad

Remove first cover remove the light panel and replace it
Install everything back...

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Very simple, easy, and quick! Anybody can do it!!

Back cover was wet in the area of the inlet valve(sign). Water on the floor. 90% of the time is a leaking inlet valve. But it could be frozen water on the drain pan- so I exposed the radiator fins and drain pan and looked. No ice so I went to the valve and opened the copper line valve and waited a few minutes- as soon as water was called by the. Ice maker it leaked. So I went ahead and replaced the valve and after I made sure no leaks were visible I replaced the back cover and continued to observe and all was good. I treated the fridge as a new installation, changed filter and dumped the next two ice buckets. Then I proceeded to demand brownie points.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Opened filter housing, yanked out old filter, screwed in new filter - one turn.
For the air filter, opened housing. Lifted out old filter, dropped in new, closed housing.

ONCE WE KNEW THE COMPRESSOR WAS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING , USED A MULTI METER TO VERIFY 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WAS PRESENT, FOUND 120 VOLTAGE TO THE INVERTER WITH NO VOLTAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. OHMS OUT THE COMPRESSOR, FOUND IT WAS WITH IN SPECS. REPLACED THE INVERTER AND ALL IS WELL ONCE AGAIN.

Isolate the broken LED light fixture by pressing the door switch and releasing it; broken light will remain off and not flicker. Unplug refrigerator and apply painter's tape around the light fixture to protect surface finish from being marred or scratched. Use the putty knife to remove the LED light and disconnect the wiring from connector. Reconnect wire of new part and install by pressing light fixture in place. Remove tape and plug refrigerator back in.