KRFC300EWH01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

You just take the old door bin out by sliding it up and replace with the new bin by sliding it down in the door.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

I did not unplug the refrigerator. Your choice on this. Take a close look at the existing icemaker, how the wires are routed and what the water spout looks like as it relates to the icemaker. Small flat-blade screwdriver will help in unlocking tabs on the icemaker plug. Go ahead and unplug it. Of the three screws that secure the icemaker, two are impossible to see without holding a mirror in your third hand. Completely remove the bottom screw (by feel). Don't drop it, like I did. Have no idea where it went. Loosen the top two screws but do not remove. Icemaker will lift off of the top two screws when you push it up. With old icemaker out of the way, plug in the new icemaker. Be careful to properly align the water spout into the new icemaker as you hook it on the two top screws. When everything looks good, tighten the two top screws. Replace the bottom screw, if you didn't lose it. My icemaker is doing fine without a bottom screw. It should make some ice within an hour, or so. Mine did.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

Used a deep well 1/4" nut driver. Loosen 4 screws on inside of door and slip it up and off rack. Remove 2 screws on bottom of ice maker. Loosen top 2. Slip up of screws, unplug ice maker and remove.

1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.

First, make sure you have the correct part. I had trouble with mine, at first, until I realized that I had received the wrong part... it was same shape but larger. To begin, remove both fruit/vegetable drawers. Remove deli drawer. Remove deli drawer glass panel with both supports. Remove 3, 1/4" hex screws that attach end-cap. Disengage temp control slide and arm from end-cap by carefully moving parts in the direction where they will disengage. Remove temp control slide from end-cap. Now that end-cap is out, remove 2 screws that hold metal drawer slide to end-cap. Attach drawer slide to new end-cap. Attach temp contol slide and connect the plastic arm. Attach end-cap to refrigerator. Replace glass shelf, supports and drawers. Done.

The video was a great help. I was able to replace gaskets on both doors with out taking them off and no tools were needed.
One of the refrigerator doors has a plate that closes with the door that makes replacing the gasket questionable but I was able to do it with no problem.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The old gasket peeled out easily. No tools needed. The replacement gasket fit right in the groove. I did not need to immerse the gasket in warm water or use a hair dryer. Nifty trick: once the new gasket is in place, close the freezer door. Run your finger in the center groove of the gasket, which will push the magnet against the fridge. Leave the door closed for an hour. The gasket has then assumed a perfect fit and will continue to fit perfectly.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Replaced the left side endcap for the drawer. Three screws and it popped out. Easy process once I actually looked at it. Drawer cover now works as designed. Replaced inline water filter. Not problem there.

.screw held in the center of the rail,pull it out,slide the rail up off the support brackets on the door,unplug the old one & plug in the new one,slide on, & replace the screw! That Easy