KRFC302EBS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

There have been two problems with closing the left door.

First, the flap did not engage with the stop at the top of the cabinet and so the door did not close properly. Fixed this by adding a shim to the cabinet stop to lower it by about 3/16 of an inch.

The second problem was that the left door flapper had somehow gotten loose from its lower plastic clip. The solution to this was simply to remove the single screw in the flapper in the center where the electrical connector is, then re-attach the flapper with both clips properly engaged, and replace the screw to hold things fast..

No new parts were needed.

I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrived it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

I used “ Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA” instructions.

Without it, I may still be struggling to remove it. These are his notes summarized.

Remove both humidifier drawers
Remove the glass shelf
Remove the deli drawer and lid

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide the front of the end cap up and out.

THE PLASTIC TAB IS THE KEY!! ---^

To install the new end cap, reverse this process.

The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid.
Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight.

Huge thanks to Bruce from KIRKLAND, WA!!!

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Remove the 2 screws that secure the flipper seal to the door. Slide the entire flipper seal up approximately 3/8ths of an inch. Disconnect wire connection. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Be sure flipper seal is pushed down enough to align screw holes before trying to reinstall the 2 screws.