KRFC302ESS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell

snapped old part out , snapped new part in -as easy as that -shipment of part took 2 days - no problems and no issues. whole repair took just a few minutes-very satisfied, very happy .

Unfolded gasket and heated with a hair dryer to soften and straighten it. Pulled old gasket out by prying straight out from door channel. Start at bottom corners so that gasket is hanging free when finished. Starting at upper corner press new gasket into door channels. Proceed around perimeter pressing the gasket in and making sure the gasket is spread flat. Done.

Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Obviously remove the glass shelf and supports plus all three drawers first. Being as there are no screws or visible means by which the Pantry Drawer End Cap is attached and being as the part entails removal of the vent slider from the back, there presents a problem. The backside of the end cap has hooks that clip into the side of the refrigerator wall. Use caution in raising the end cap up to release the clips. It does help using the screwdriver beneath the end cap and some movement with hands but it will come up along with the backside attachment. That isn’t the problem.
The difficulty is in (1) noting and remembering how the assembly came off and apart. (2) Putting the moving parts inside of the end cap like they came out and (3) replacing the back and side at the same time. The back assembly has a clip that inserts to the left. It is important to insert that first. The side portion inserts by placing above the slots and pushing in (to the right) and down at the same time. It all comes together and you will wonder how you did it.

Turned the old one to unseat and replaced with a new one in the reverse order.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

Snapped new cover on.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.