KFIS27CXBL3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap.
Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)

This grille just snapped into place without the use of tools. Couldn't have been easier. And the delivery was super fast; I ordered online one day and the item arrived the very next day.

Pulled old gasket off door put new one in channel on door pushed gasket in channel less than 10 minutes

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

last time i tried it right away after removing from shipping box.. relaxing with with hot air gun... was not to easy... this time i allowed gaskets to relax for a week on a flat surface. in a warm room.... took less than 5 minutes per door.... no hot air needed.... VERY easy.

No product was sent in the box for the shaft I received an empty box from them cannot perform any repairs because I got no product from this company. Called customer service said due to Covid no customer service available when online and receive no customer service no refund no product no help

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

unscrewed old filter, screwed in new....good to go!

Changed the ice and Water filter, works great...

Really easy, simple instructions, and it was on my doorstep 3 days after I ordered. Much simpler than dealing with the appliance store, where I'd have to drive to the store, order the filter, wait 7-10 days, and return to pick it up. Ughh! Internet is the way to go!

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Turn off the water to the unit. Disconnect the plug on wiring from the old valve.
They always recommend you disconnect the electric (unplug) the unit while doing this work.
Disconnect the water lines from the old valve by pushing the water line slightly into the flange on the valve, it releases the line from the flange.
Hold the flange rim against the valve seat and pull, you may have to jiggle the water line a little while pulling to remove it.
Push the water lines into the ports on the new valve, turn on the water and check for leaks.
If no leaks, plug the wire connections onto the new valve, reconnect it to the unit and turn the power back on.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!