KFXL25RYMS2 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

pop open, unscrew quarter turn, screw new one in quarter turn, pop shut. duh

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

I pulled the ils gasket out of track and replaced with the new one. Instructions ncluded state to be very careful with new gasket as the magnets may break. Total time 2 minutes with no tools required.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Took the gasket out of the box and placed outside I. The sun. For 15 minutes then peeled off old gasket and easily replaced with the new one.

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

They send you just the guts, the inner core of the icemaker, and don't include the back piece that has the motor to rotate the screw-drive dispenser and the blower. You get 2 wiring harnesses, and since no instructions come with, you get to figure out which one. The replacement has a few different plugs than the original and those competent can determine which without too much problem. One obstacle was the grounding screw which was inaccessible without removing another part which would have added greatly to the difficulty. I snipped off the old wire and the ring-terminal on the new one and joined the two with a wire clasp. Works like a charm. I had previously replaced the cycling thermostat and checked that the water valve solenoid was within the proper ohm boundaries-don't spend the money for the whole thing without trying those first! Mine must be an odd model because no YouTube videos showed the icemaker from this model.

watched diagnosis and repair videos online, assessed problem, order part and replaced ice maker. was not expecting to replace wiring harness but got it done and icemaker is working just fine.

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

Followed instructions for testing and replacement on You Tube video.

The replacement part provided was not an exact replacement. The part did not include a water reservoir. Instead, it had a 25 ft long water line that ran from the water filter to the water connection behind the fridge. The long water line was difficult to deal with, did not fit easily into the space provided for the water reservoir, and is coiled up behind my fridge. The part did work, but I'm unhappy with not having the resevoir.