KFXL25RYMS4 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

watched diagnosis and repair videos online, assessed problem, order part and replaced ice maker. was not expecting to replace wiring harness but got it done and icemaker is working just fine.

They send you just the guts, the inner core of the icemaker, and don't include the back piece that has the motor to rotate the screw-drive dispenser and the blower. You get 2 wiring harnesses, and since no instructions come with, you get to figure out which one. The replacement has a few different plugs than the original and those competent can determine which without too much problem. One obstacle was the grounding screw which was inaccessible without removing another part which would have added greatly to the difficulty. I snipped off the old wire and the ring-terminal on the new one and joined the two with a wire clasp. Works like a charm. I had previously replaced the cycling thermostat and checked that the water valve solenoid was within the proper ohm boundaries-don't spend the money for the whole thing without trying those first! Mine must be an odd model because no YouTube videos showed the icemaker from this model.

It is as easy as is shown in the self-help video. (1) Disconnect the power, (2) Roll the appliance out so you can get to the back, (3) Using a nut driver remove all the screws from the lower back panel then remove the panel, (4) Remove the tensioner wire, (5) unplug the electrical connection to the capacitor, (6) gently but firmly remove the capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (7) preassemble your new capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (8) now simply reverse your steps for installing and you are done! These two parts saved me the cost of a new refrigerator. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. PS: while you have the panel removed you can do a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and vacuum.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Removed old starter and capacitor as per your website instruction.
Plugged in new parts.
Compresser turned on

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

Followed instructions for testing and replacement on You Tube video.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Took out ice maker. Then unscrewed tray after opening old turn motor clock panel and carefully detaching wires from socket(s) where needed. Put in and screwed in new tray with the new motor clock. Replaced wires into new sockets. Put the whole maker back into place. Makes great ice.